Innovations Tire Repair and Inflation Wallet Click to enlarge The Innovations Tire Repair and Inflation Wallet is all you need to repair and inflate your tire on the road or trail. Featuring our new and improved Microflate instant CO2 tire inflator which is ideal for both road and MTB tires. Kit comes in a convenient padded nylon pouch that can be carried in a hydration pack or an under the seat bag. Kit Contains: 1 Microflate CO2 instant tire inflator 2 Innovations nylon tire levers 1 Innovations small patch kit 2- 16 gram threaded CO2 cartridges Padded nylon carrying case Microflate CO2 inflator information: Light weight, controllable mini inflator. Twisting the cylinder to open and close the unique valve controls flow of CO2 using Genuine Innovations twist to inflate technology TM. Push on for Presta, screw on for Schrader valves. Made of tough glass filled nylon, all metal inner valve parts. Uses threaded CO2 cylinders. Packaged separately, or with one 16 gram threaded cartridge. Patent pending Cartridge compatibility: 12, 16, 25 gram threaded, Big Air! Size & weight: 44mm x 32mm x 19mm x 38 grams.   $19.95 $16.00

1. Slime Mini Compressor Kit - Sealant seals punctures up to 1/4" in tread area - Non-toxic, safe for tires and wheels - Fully inflates tires fast from any ...  Part Number: SLIME-40001 Price: $34.95 CruiserCustomizing Staff Pick (3 reviews) 2. Accu-Pressure Safety Caps - One Cap Underinflated tires on motor vehicles cause crashes due to tire blow-outs, immobilized vehicles, poor handling as well as hydropla ...  Part Number: ASE-X MSRP: $6.95 Price: $4.95 Limited time offer (426 reviews) 3. Progressive Suspension Tire Repair Kit, TRK5 The new TRK-5 comes with a huge 68 gram CO/2 cartridge (standard on our other kits is a 12 gram cartridge). The 68 gram cartridge ...  Part Number: PS-TRK-5 MSRP: $49.95 Price: $44.96 (21 reviews) 4. Dunlop K555 170/80H15 WWW Rear - O.E. on Honda Magna and VTX 1300/1800, Shadow and ACE, PC800, Kawasaki ZL600 and Suzuki Intruder - 150/80H-15 (Magna, ZL600) - ...  Part Number: DUN-401998 MSRP: $190.95 Price: $114.57 (17 reviews) 5. Progressive Suspension Tire Repair Kit, TRK-2 The TRK-2 feature the Moto-Pump-Ultra. It will accept both threaded and non-threaded CO2 cartridges. Comes complete with both plug ...  Part Number: PS-TRK-2 MSRP: $49.95 Price: $44.96 (15 reviews) 6. Progressive Suspension Tire Repair Kit, TRCL-2 Compact kit in rigid plastic box (tubed version). Comes complete with plugs, glue, adapter hose and CO2 cartridges. For tubeless t ...  Part Number: PS-TRCL-2 MSRP: $34.95 Price: $31.46 (15 reviews) 7. Metzeler ME 880 Marathon 170/80HB-15 Rear   Part Number: ME-110-10419 MSRP: $179.95 Price: $125.96 (15 reviews)

Bike Repairs: Fixing A Flat Tire Doesn't it suck when you're ridin' around on your bike, when suddenly you hear a pop and you have a flat tire. That really bites. It means you gotta walk everywhere or ride a wonky wheel... Unless you know how to fix a flat. What You'll Need to Fix a Bike Flat A tire lever Some sandpaper A patch kit (this comes with patches and glue) A bike pump. Removing the Tire From the Rim Before you remove the flat tire, let all the remaining air out. You can do this by taking off the valve cap then pressing the valve down at an angle. Set the wheel on the floor or ground. Grab the rim with one hand, and try to pull the tire sideways over the top of the rim with the other hand. You may need to use a tire lever. Start by putting the lever anywhere between the tire and the edge of the rim. Insert the lever just far enough to pry the edge of the tire over the edge Repairing a Tire on Your Bike of the rim - but be careful not to poke a hole in the inner tube! Once you've pryed the tire over the rim a few inches, you should be able to pull out the inner tube, then pry the rest of the tire off by hand. Patching a Flat Bike Tire The first thing you need to do is find out where the hole in the tube is. You can do this by pumping up the tube, and listening for where the air is coming from. Or, you can put the whole tube under water and look for bubbles coming out. Once you've found the hole, here's how you patch it; Roughen the area around the hole with sandpaper or a scaper. Be sure there's no dirt around the hole. Spread a little bit of glue over the area of the hole (you don't need gobs and gobs of it, just enough to cover the area), then let the glue fully dry - this should take about three minutes. Peel the foil or plastic backing off one of the patches, then firmly press the patch on to the glued area. Make sure you don't touch the side of the patch that's going Bike Tire Repairing on the tire - if it gets any dirt on it, the patch may not stick. You're tire is now patched. Putting the Tire and Tube Back On Once you've patched the tube, feel around the inside of the tire to make sure the thing that was stuck in your tire isn't still there. Pump a little bit of air into your tube so it begins to take shape. Put the tube firmly into the tire. Push the valve half way into the valve hole on the rim. Grab your bike wheel and slip the tire over one side of the rim. Once you have one side on, you should be able to slip the tire on to the other side using a tire lever. This may be a little tough at first, but it gets easier with practice. Just slip the tire on a few inches at a time and you'll eventually get it. Once you have the tire on, pull and wiggle the valve into the proper position. Now begin pumping air into the tire. Do it slowly at first and make sure to check that the tire is inflating evenly. If it is, fill up your tire to full pressure. Your tire should be firm, but you should still be able to push into it a little with your thumb. You're now ready to go biking again. Fixing a flat tire can be difficult at first, so try not to get frustrated. If you're having trouble, ask your parents or your older brother or sister for help. And if that doesn't work? Just take the tire off your friend's and put it on to yours. Related Stories: The Outdoor Adventure Show Bike Expo World Cup Mountain Biking Heelys - Running Shoes with Wheels More Cool Sports Gear!

By Rick Webster Trailside Repairs – Fixing a Flat With Safety Seal’s Off Road Tire Repair Kit F lat tires suck. But, there’s no reason to fret the problem if you have the right tools. Safety Seal’s tire repair kits are quite different from most other’s in the market and here’s what sets them apart. Aside from their quality tools, the sturdy carrying case and the abundance of extra sealing cords (plugs), the manufacturing process of the cords themselves is what makes them great. Their cords employ 24 plies of a custom-made, high tensile strength (350 lb break strength) chemical resistant nylon yarn. Each yarn is immersed in their unique, proprietary rubber sealant system, which gives each cord 250% rubber-to-yarn mixture. Their patented manufacturing process also assures the final Safety Seal repair has an equal amount of rubber sealant throughout the Safety Seal repair.   This brings us to the part of the story of how we actually repair the flat tire. While we removed our tire from the truck, this can easily be done on the side of the road or on the trail too. Step 1 First, find the little (or big) culprit that is causing you your troubles. If you feel there might be multiple leaks, use some soapy water in a spray bottle and spray the tire tread liberally. If there’s any leaky air, it will be obvious (see picture), by frothing little bubbles. Clean the area, if needed, by removing any large amounts of dirt, mud or the likes so that you don’t push a bunch of crud into the hole. Step 2 Next, remove the nail from the tire as seen in the picture. If the nail is relatively small, use the supplied Safety Seal spiral reaming tool to open the whole large enough to accept the Safety Seal plug cord. Trust us on this one, it’s a step you don’t want to forget, lest you enjoy hernia operations. Insert the reaming tool at least ¾ of the way into the tire tread and pull it out in the opposite direction of the spirals to scuff the sides. You may need to apply a bit of the Safety Seal lubricant to get the reamer in and out, we did. Step 3 You’ll now pull the plug cord through the eyelet of the plug cord “needle” (inserter tool). You may also want to apply a bit of lube to the eye of the needle and a tiny amount to half of the cord. Pulling the cord through the needle can be a bit of a chore and sometimes a pair of pliers will help you get it through, but it’s not necessary. Step 4 With the plug cord inserted into the plug needle tool, push the plug cord about ¾ of the way into the tire (imagine about one half of an inch or so sticking through into the tire). To remove the needle tool without pulling the cord out (here’s another feature that sets Safety Seal apart), firmly push down on the plug retainer ring until it’s sitting securely on the plug. Now pull the needle tool away from the tire and the plug will stay seated inside the hole, while the tool comes out of the tire. Step 5 To prevent the plug from getting caught on another obstacle while driving or wheeling your rig, we recommend that you clip the cord with a pair of side cutters (see picture) so that there’s about ¼” of cord plug showing. At this point you can now adjust your tire’s air pressure and be on your way.   The whole process of fixing your tire only takes about 10 minutes to complete. If you’re going to do some serious off- roading, you may want to let the plug sit (without driving) for about 15 minutes for the vulcanization process to complete, and lessen the chance that you’ll rip the plug out of the tire. Safety Seal insists that you shouldn’t plug the sidewall of a tire for safety reasons, and we agree. However, if you’re off-road and need to keep going, they do work wonders. In fact, we’ve had a Safety Seal plug in what is now our spare tire’s sidewall for more than 8 years! The plug cord is still supple and sealed completely. North Shore Laboratories Corp - Safety Seal® 40-44 ENDICOTT STREET P.O. BOX 568 PEABODY, MA 01960 Phone: (800) 888-9021 Email: nslc@erols.com web site: www.safetyseal.com

F650 Tire FAQ

by David #476
Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ.
Updated 23 June 2004 by Scott, ID #1244

• My tires are about shot. What should I replace them with?
• My bike has a bias ply tire on the front and a radial on the rear, do I need to keep this configuration?
• What tire pressure should I use?
• My tires say tubeless, but they have inner tubes. What's up with that?
• Just what is a tube-type tyre, anyway?
• What do those numbers on my tyre mean?
• Can I mix different tires?
• Can I use oversized tyres?
• What about knobbies and a low fender?
• Can I change my own tires?
• Tyre Installation Advice
• Fixing Flat Tyres and Related Advice
• Studding Motorcycle tires
• Photos
• For OPINIONS on Tires/Tyres, refer the Tyre Opinions FAQ

My tires are about shot. What should I replace them with?

That depends on what you do or intend to do with your bike. If you intend to ride on pavement only, you're in luck. Every tire manufacturer makes several types of tire in sizes to fit the F650. The choices range from sticky sport-oriented tires to harder, long wearing, touring type tires which will last much longer at some small deficit to the handling.

If you intend to ride off-pavement there are more variables to consider. Do you ride a mix of 75 road/25 off-road or the other way round? Is the percentage more lopsided one way or the other? Off-road tires can be grouped into two types as well. You have your dual-sports and your off-road MX/Enduro types.

While some Inmates are quite pleased with the Bridgestone Trailwings that came on their bike, reporting good longevity, most inmates who have tried nearly any other tire report that handling and confidence are greatly improved by abandoning the Bridgerocks. Michelin T66 and Metzeler Tourance tires are two of the favorites for those who favor highway over dirt in their dual-sport percentage mix. Avon Gripsters are another offering with vocal aficionados who tend to have a slightly higher dirt percentage than the previous two.

Dual-Sport tires can be further sub-grouped into two groups: Block tread designs which are more oriented towards the highway side of things, (The Bridgestone Trail Wings or Metzeler Tourances that came with your bike are of this type), and knobby type more towards the off-road side of things. The characteristic they both share is that they are DOT rated. This is important if you plan on spending hours on end at highway speeds because the manufacturer has certified with the DOT that these tires will do this without coming apart. Examples of the knobby type are the Metzeler MCE Karoo and the Continental TKC-80 Twinduro, or Metzeler Sahara. All these tires come in a size that will fit the F650, although sometimes not in the suggested 100/90-19 or 130/80-17 size.

When we move to MX/Enduro tires things get a little sticky (pardon the pun). The F650 and GS come with wheel sizes (most notably the 19" front) that are somewhat less common for off-road bikes and most tire manufacturers only make this type of tire in 21" front sizes. (If you have a Dakar, you're in luck!).

There are several remedies for this. Some members have replaced the entire front ends from off-road bikes (the benefit of which is greater ground clearance and suspension travel, as well as a 21" front tire). Others have had the rim and spokes replaced with a 21" Excel and re-laced by Buchanans Wheel. (Benefit here is a much stronger rim, but stock hub uses stock brake and Speedo set up) Another option is to use 100/90-19 REAR tires mounted backwards on the rim. I personally have used this option and it is the best solution for "off-road" with a stock bike I've found. It required cutting the outermost knobs down about 1/2" with a sharp knife to clear the fender, but it went like stink in the dirt. While the rear 17" is easier to fit, a greater variety of off-road tires are available in 18" size. This requires the new rim option and care must be taken to assure clearance of the tire against the swingarm. This can be accomplished by adding a link to the chain and moving the chain adjuster towards the rear off the bike or by buying a smaller diameter tire. Both have ramifications in handling and gearing, so consider this carefully.

The down side to using this type of tire is that it is NOT DOT rated. Use at your own risk! Another bummer is that they are LOUD on the street, because the knobs are pointed (when new) instead of flat like the DOT knobbies and the designers waste no time on making them quiet as they do with all street and dual-sport tires. Although I found the handling to be acceptable, be careful. Riding on dry pavement with an off-road knobby is like riding on dirt with a street tire. You need to increase your braking distance and reduce your lean angles.

Q. OK. So, I realize that there are a lot of variables of course, but would a high-mileage touring tire have at least as good wet and dry grip on pavement as something like the Tourance? Michael #941

A. The short answer would be no, Michael. All other things being equal, the mileage that you can get out of modern tires has a lot to do with how soft and sticky is their rubber compound. A soft sticky tire tread will grip the pavement better, but leave more of itself behind as you ride along. Where things get complicated is how the construction, flexibility, design (radial, bias-ply, bias-belted), aspect ratio, diameter, width, tread profile, rain grooves and other factors enter into the equation. To make matters worse, many high-mileage tires are designed for much larger and heavier bikes than the F650 and are also designed to be mounted on tubeless wheels. Installing a tube in a tubeless tire will cause the tire to run hotter than the tire engineers planned on and a hotter tire will usually wear faster and have a lower maximum speed rating. What all this means is that you pretty much have to go by word-of-mouth to find a tire that works well on our bikes while also providing good mileage. Richard #230

My bike has a bias ply tire on the front and a radial on the rear, do I need to keep this configuration?

BMW recommends a bias ply front and a radial rear tire. I'm sure there is a valid reason for this, but it severely limits the choices of rubber for your bike. While many street tires and a few dual-sport tires (mostly of the block tread design), are available in Bias Front/Radial Rear types, most aggressive Dual-Sport and all MX/Enduro tires are bias ply. If at all possible, I would try to pick tires that meet your needs as well as follow the recommendations of BMW, but don't let it be a limiting factor. Many of us have run bias rear tires such as a Michelin Sirac with no detrimental effects. A radial Dual-Sport tire will disappoint if most of your riding is off-road, especially in loose material.

What tire pressure should I use?

They are many answers to this question, and just about everyone has a different one. Many folks on the list have experienced better tire longevity on some brands at higher pressures than the ones recommended in the owner's manual (and on the sicker on the swingarm). The best rule of thumb is that your hot tire pressure should be between five and ten percent higher than the cold pressure. That is if you inflate the tires to 36 psi when cold, when the tire is hot it should be 38 to 40psi. Any more or less and the tire is over or under-inflated. This rule also takes into account the varying loads you could put on your bike.

See the Tire Opinion FAQ for comments on tire inflation.

My tires say tubeless, but they have inner tubes. What's up with that?

There are several answers for this one. One has to do with the style of the rims. For whatever reason, probably cost, the tubeless type of wire spoke rims as used on the R/GS series were not used on the F's. Because the spoke nipples are inside the bead of the tire much care and considerable luck would be needed to keep air inside the tires, one reason for the tube. Others have to do with riding off road. With the low pressures used for off road riding, it would be very easy for a tubeless tire to pop it's bead off the rim, and having a tube inside gives a little extra insurance against punctures. The plus side of this is that should a puncture ever happen, a simple fix of the tube gets you back on your way. Many off roaders carry "Slime" or some other puncture repair along with some way to re-inflate the tire, either CO2 cartridges or a pump. If a flat happens, you're back on your way relatively quickly. With a tubeless tire, while emergency plugs are available, they are just that and a puncture pretty much dictates a new tire for safety reasons.

It is fine to put tubes in tubeless tires. In fact all tubeless motorcycle tires say, either on the tire or in the manufacturer's literature words to the effect, "Install tube when used on tube-type rim."

Just what is a tube-type tyre, anyway?

Q. What is a tube-type tire? Benefits/drawbacks? Differences vs. tubeless? Manolo

A. Tube-type tires are always bias-ply tires (usually marked with a tubeless/tube-type designation on the sidewall). They supposedly have a slightly different bead configuration than do "pure" tubeless tires and are specifically designed to accommodate the installation of tubes. My guess is that the design is more resistant to heat build-up, due to the weight and friction of the tube, and may not have the same air-proof coatings inside the tire and stiff sidewalls as a tubeless or radial tire may have. This may be why the tubeless radial tires that BMW specifies for the rear wheel of our bikes are so difficult to break the beads loose from the rim. The front tires, which are not radial in design, seem to come off more easily than the rear tires. In my experience, both types of tires hold air and seem to work OK. Richard #230

What do those numbers on my tyre mean?

Would you believe just about everything you need to know about a tire, including when it was made, is contained in the article: What's in a tire besides air? De-mystifying the black art of tire designations ? This comes from the American Motorcyclist Association. Will in CA

Can I mix different tires?

Q. A KLR riding friend of mine and I have been discussing and debating various tire choices. My friend is a big proponent of putting an Avon Gripster (provided they are really being produced) on the back and a Sahara on the front - he says there's no adverse affect to mixing tires like that.
However, in the MSF class I took last weekend, the instructor was vehemently against mixing tires. Opinions? Seacuke#1214
A. MSF has a strict party line about many things. Like using all four fingers on the front brake. They won't support mixing tires. As long as you don't mix drastically types, you should be fine. I've used mixed high performance radials to good advantage. Even the carcass type isn't all that important, if you look at the Classic. It came from the factory with one radial and one bias ply, if memory serves. Your friend's combo for dual sport riding sounds like a good one. Harl#380
A. All bias ply or all radial are best choice. Some combinations are actually illegal in the UK. The manufacturer and style of tread should make no difference if they are both approved, but you may notice a different feel. Andy#982
A. This is a legal liability issue here, not a technical question. As long as it fits, doesn't get in the way of anything, and you do the job right, you can mount anything you want. Flash#412
A. I concur with BMW's recommendations. You can run radial tires at both the front and rear, but you need to use a higher pressure in the front tire to keep the bike from understeering around corners (which can cause other problems). Their recommendation to use a radial rear and a bias ply tire for the front is the best combination, in my experience. Richard#230

Can I use oversized tyres?

Q. Has anyone ever stuffed a 160/60-17 onto the rear rim of a Classic F650? I happen to have a pretty decent tire handy. Will it fit? It really looks wide, but I had to check. Someone here must have tried! Andy
A. It fits fine but needs a wider rim. 4.5" is the correct size. Chainsuk

A. Anyone considering using non-homologated tires on their bike, particularly those doing a super motard conversion might be interested in consulting this Rim Width/Tire Size Chart  Flash #412

What about knobbies and a low fender?

Q. Does anyone have experience with running knobbies (Conti TKC80 for example) with the low TT [Touratech] fender? How much room is in there? Bike in question is a 03 Dakar. Rene

A. Apples and Oranges, I know, but on my '99, TKC's fit fine with the OEM fender (small square knobs) but real-off road knobs (Maxxis with tall pointy knobs) needed a trim on the outside row of knobs, and still grabbed rocks and threw them up against the fender and eventually broke my fender extender. I wouldn't think you would have clearance problems, but if you do, a serrated knife makes short work of the offending knobs. David #476

A. With street tires, the big concern is caking up the tire with mud, then locking the wheel when the mud fills up the clearance between the tire and fender. Not sure if "knobbies" can cake up in the same way or not. Marty #436

A. I put some 1/2" chrome plated spacers under my TT fork brace to raise the fender a little after a mud-cake problem. I forget the name of the company that makes chrome plated fasteners, but I got them from the local hardware store. You'll need longer fork brace bolts too. RodP

Can I change my own tires?

Short answer: Yes. Big Picture: While changing tires on many bikes is a relatively easy process, the design of the F650 rims with very little drop center, particularly in the rear wheel, make this a very difficult and patience-testing ordeal. Many an old pro has returned to the list whimpering about bent tire irons and scratched rims and vowing never again. It IS do-able, there's no magic involved. And if you ever plan on repairing a puncture in the field, a bit of advanced practice in the garage is well worth the time. Breaking the bead loose on the rear will require either a bead breaker tool, running it over with a car (just the tire, not the wheel), using a jack or some other artifice. Once the bead is broken extracting the tube for repair is difficult. Reinstalling the valve stem through the rim will flat hurt your hands and try your resolve. But, take heart, it can be done.

As always: YMMV

Tyre Installation

Check your tires are installed the correct way around!

"The F is somewhat unusual in that the drive chain is on the right side of the bike. Pointing this out to the service department, and maybe putting a piece of masking tape on the rim with an arrow showing the direction of travel, may help prevent the tire from being mounted bass-ackwards on the rim. If they're a Japanese shop, they're probably accustomed to the drive chain on the left and may not realize the F is different unless you point it out. Also cause of Wobble, Poor grip etc." James #523 CT.

Q. It appears that I may possibly have a bent rim after having a new tire installed. Could it be something else and how do I check?
A. "...you wrote 'When the bike is on the center stand and running in first gear, you can see a significant wobble back and forth of the tire'. What's more important is whether the rim wobbles. You need to check that out, 'cos it's possible that the tyre is not properly seated on the rim, with the tyre-walls not sitting correctly against the rim flanges. You can check for rim wobble, just by laying a pencil on the swing-arm, close to one point on the rim, then rotating the wheel by hand. If that's ok then it's likely you'll need to re-visit your tyre dealer, (or whoever did the job), to get the job done properly.
Just to make it a bit clearer after re-reading my previous post - Sometimes when a tyre is fitted the tyre bead does not slide up hard against the rim flange, but the side-wall folds over and it *looks* like it's up against the flange. Sometimes there is a thin raised line of rubber on the side-wall, which should run close to and parallel to the rim to indicate that the tyre is fitted correctly. Close inspection should reveal whether or not that's correct in your case.
...you wrote 'The thin rubber line on the tire next to the rim wanders toward and away from the rim noticeably on one side.' That may well be it. Once when it happened to me the tyre fitters had to put around 100psi in the tube before the tyre popped into place correctly, even though they lubricated the bead and rim thoroughly. Once it was in place they obviously reduced the pressure (I was stood well away when I saw the pressure gauge going round the dial)." (Trevor #999)

Fixing Flat Tyres and Related Advice

Some Q&A on Fixing Flats at Home and on the Road

Q. How can I learn to change my own tires?
A. "Check the tire companies' web sites. Some of them have an FAQ for tire changing. You might also check out this site: http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing-doc.html " (Richard #230)

Q. Any advice on using tire irons, especially on the road?

• My tire irons are not particularly long. Perhaps with longer ones I wouldn't need the breaker. But I have it and don't travel for months at a time much these days. On the Guzzi list, it has been suggested that Gunk Waterless Hand Cleaner is the lubricant of choice for tire un/mounting. A small container is available AND you can use it to clean yourself up after doing the dirty deed.

• I buy bicycle patch kits. I buy a new one every year whether I opened the last one or not, because the glue dries out even in the sealed tube. Also, as soon as you open the tube, buy a new kit.

• Tire irons are available any place that sells motorcycles or parts. I got my very compact, dual-action bicycle pump at Target for about $8 or so. It stows nicely in the tail section (with my complete open-end wrench set).

• In a pinch, you can break the bead using a car jack and a car, IN THEORY. Maybe next time I change tires, I'll try this in practice.

• There are two issues with the rim on the F. The first is the almost complete lack of drop to the center. This means that after the bead is broken, you can't get "relief" by putting the un-mounted portion down in the center very far. That means you need to use your tire irons nearly all the way around the tire, dismounting as well as mounting. The other issue is that, I believe, the radial diameter of the rim at the place where the bead seats (not the sides) is too damned big. If it were maybe 0.100" smaller in diameter, it wouldn't be nearly so difficult to un/mount a tire. And the lack of drop center means it wouldn't be likely to dismount itself in a blow out situation anyway.

• My experience and understanding of third world countries is that there are PLENTY of tire repair people and places along the main roads and in every village. So, I'm not sure you even need to KNOW how to do it yourself if you're willing to wait for a ride down the road a few klicks. However, if you go off-road and have a flat... if you can not fix it yourself and did not bring enough water to survive the walk out... the circling scavengers will spot your position for the folks who may come looking for you, albeit too late. The only way I can think of to break a bead on the road (I'm not into the run-a-truck-over-it method) is to buy (or borrow) a large C-clamp at a local hardware store. Flash #412

• One suggestion for you - do a tire change or flat fix at home at least once, before you even consider trying it on the road. The front tire isn't too bad, the rear is rather difficult. I've done plenty of tires, and I couldn't imagine doing it for the first time by the roadside at night in the rain.

• And it's the rims that make tire changing difficult, mostly the rear rim. The front is basic tire changing. (Todd #389)

• By the way, you and others who have commented on the difficulty of breaking the bead on the 650GS rear tire are absolutely not exaggerating. I did it for the first time last week, and don't see how it could possibly be done with tire irons only. I had purchased a Tire Wizard solely for that purpose and it did work, with a lot of effort. But, I'm not sure that a wheel that is that difficult to change has any business off-pavement in the backcountry. I took the Tire Wizard with me on the trip I just finished, but, although it's light by tire changing tool standards, it did add significant weight to my luggage, which wasn't good when bouncing around on unimproved Forest Service roads. Whatever I ultimately decide to do about wheels, one thing I will definitely do is change the rear to something which can be changed as most tube-type tires can, with tire irons only. When riding in remote areas I plan to carry the Quick Jack sold by Motion Pro, or at least I will after I verify it works with a F650. This is basically a telescoping rod with a small base plate on one end and a frame hook on the other. It's used on the opposite side of the side stand. However, I haven't actually used it yet (no remote area trips lately) so I can't say with certainty that it will work on a 650, which I believe is near the top of its rated weight capacity. I know it will work on lighter bikes. I'll try it in the garage and post the result if anyone's interested, or if anyone has already tried one perhaps they could let us know if it works. It's inexpensive, light and compact - about 10 inches long when not extended and about a pound in weight. It's Motion Pro part #11-012. Mike #926

• Get 2 of the the longest tire irons you care to carry. Find some that do not have a "I" or "H" cross section, this will minimise damage to the rim. breaking beads can be a problem, when you are in the field look around for a hunk of wood or two (flatter and longer the better, milk crates, park benches, almost anything can do), place one under the tire (not rim) sort of tangential to and just skimming the outer diameter of the rim, this one will try and shear the bead off the rim. If you have a second log/board, place this one parallel to the first on the other side of the rim ass'y/rotor, but this one goes under the rim as well as the tire, this one is to hold the wheel ass'y up off the ground and protect rotors and keep the wheel from flopping around when you get to the next step. Jump up and down on the other side of the tire just above the spot where the wood is skimming the rim in the bead area, concentrating the force nearest the bead. if you are near civilization (or just a car) use the cars jack to jack a car up placing the jack on your tire in the above scenario instead of your jumping foot. lacking that, set up the tire in bead breaking position (as above) and have a buddy ride his bike over your tire (not rim!). If none of the above works, ride the tire flat to a place where you can fix it, but be prepared to buy a new tube and/or tire." (mtiberio)

• I assume you're talking tubeless here (or you have already removed the tube, ed.). Remember to clamp the tire beads together so that it drops into the lowest part of the rim when removing/installing. Failure to do this will make it VERY tough to get that last little bit on. I use an eight inch Vise to break the bead. I always imagine I will be able to talk a gas station into letting me use theirs... (Paul)

• Your best bet may be to buy a Tire Wizard and learn how to use it. As a complete tire changing tool, it takes up the smallest amount of space for doing the greatest amount of functions. The only way I can think of to break a bead on the road (I'm not into the run-a-truck-over-it method) is to buy (or borrow) a large C-clamp at a local hardware store. I know for a fact that a C-clamp will work. When I broke my official J C Whitney "motorcycle tire bead breaker" trying to break the bead on the rear tire of my 1997 bike, I grabbed a C-clamp off my workbench and that did the job. Richard #230

• Had a puncture on the DR at the weekend but simply put it on its side and got on with the repair. I wouldn't want to do this on the Dakar though! My thoughts are: rear tyre – lean bike over as far as possible on side stand and place suitable object under the right-hand swing arm to hold wheel off ground; front tyre – lean over as far as possible on side stand and place suitable object under bash plate to hold front wheel off ground. Would this work? Anyone tried it? Mike in UK

• On one of my very first trips [’01 Dakar] I picked up a nail and got a rear flat. Not having a centre stand or other tools for that matter, I bought a can of flat-fix-it-type stuff and filled 'er up. By the time I got home three hours later, that rear tire got extremely hot. The next day, I took the tube out and replaced it. Getting the tire off was easy and breaking the bead was no big deal. I used some ABS plastic ammo boxes under the centre of the bike using a small auto jack to lift it up into place while sliding the boxes into place. Be careful... easy to lose the bike's balance when using a small jack like that. Put it all back together again and still got another 7500 miles out of that tire. If I were on the road without tools, I'd use road recovery. If that weren't an option, I'd get it off the ground somehow. One of the next purchases will be a decent centre stand. I've already put together a small pump and carry tools/tubes when I'm away from home. I don't think carrying a service stand is feasible. Gerry #951

• I've not yet lifted the GS tires from the ground, but with my old DR600 it was very easy. Lean it over the side stand until the rear tire is in the air and just put something like a jerry can (in the Sahara Desert) or an aluminium pannier under the engine protector. I've even used a stick which I found on the side of the road for that. You can do the same thing with the front tire, just balance it a little different. But make sure to open the locking nut before lifting it up. Flat-tire spray sometimes helps as well, but usually just for a day or so. If you want to carry anything to be prepared, I'd suggest that. It usually gets you at least home. Ralf

• When I head off on a remote trip (i.e., no cell service, few cars), I started carrying the usual stuff: tube, irons, patch kit, CO2 cartridges, and a small hand pump for the next flat (when the CO2 is gone). And Richard's C-clamp. Then I actually changed the tires last fall, and learned it would be a real bitch to change a tube without some kind of lift. A centre stand would be nice. Lacking that, a small hydraulic automobile jack and short piece of 2x4 seems to work pretty good. Indeed, this is how I changed the tires. Oh, and a small piece of 4x4 under the side stand; a rock would probably work too. To stabilize the bike, I ran straps from each handlebar to the rear of the bike (seemed too wobbly otherwise once it was jacked up). Using just the side stand and something else for the 3rd leg is an interesting idea, but it may be quite wobbly. Be good to try that in the comfort of your garage first. And have someone standing by to catch the bike if it takes a plunge. Until then, when I head out this spring I'll toss that extra 5 pounds(?) of metal in the travel bag. . . just in case. I carry a bottle of Slime as a first line of repair. If that doesn't get me back to a shady garage stocked with cold beer, THEN I would begin the tire removal process . . . Scott #1244

Q. How do I change the tires myself? Any good advice?

• Three tire irons on my 21" wheel worked quite well last week when I removed my Sahara's and installed my TKC's. Took about 60 minutes, and that included reading the "tire removal" manual. And best of all, no bloody knuckles! I did use a small strip of wood crossways through the spokes to hold the first lever down while I worked the remaining two (kind of a "second hand"). The back tire took longer, about 2 hours, but I did it twice because I pinched a tube or something. Anyhow, just wanted to say that if you haven't tried it "the hard way", it isn't ALL that hard after all. But I do have lots of practice with some very difficult "aero rims" on my bicycle . . . (Scott, ID)

• I changed from T66 to TKC-80 this summer when I was travelling in Iceland. I did it with some help of my brother. He is 100kg+ and has a garage in Reykjavik. The procedure: 1. Get a 2"x4" 5m+ wooden board. The longer the better. 2. Take off your wheel. 3. Lay your wheel on the ground, use something under to protect the brake disc and rim edges, perhaps some short 2"x4" wooden board.4. The trick is to use the long wooden board as an lever, so that you multiply the downward force on the tyre bead. So put your bead under the wooden board, perhaps a half meter from one edge. Put that edge under something so that it can't move upwards. Stand and if necessary jump up and down on the other edge of the wooden board. Get someone else if necessary to join you. Work your way around the bead and do the same on the other side. 5. Change your tyre as usual. Count on 3-4 hours the first time you change the tyres, and don't worry about the balancing. I just left the balancing as it was and haven't had any problems with that. (Spakur #1117)

• New rear TKC80 yesterday. Breaking the bead is getting easier with every tyre change - because I'm not expecting it to be easy! My method (less than 10 mins) - place wheel on floor (protected by thick carpet) disc uppermost. Dig heal into bead and jump up and down. Move 3" further round and repeat etc. Before three full circuits the bead pops off. It doesn't feel as if the tyres moving but stick with it. I then turn wheel over lifting the disc off the ground with two 3" x 2" wood. Bead pops off before one full circuit. (paul W)

• After about 5 attempts at bead breaking with eventual success and lots of expletives I have now sussed the bead break :) I've done it twice now, once with a worn tyre and once with a nearly new one. Both in under 5 mins. Remove the valve and release the holding nut. If you feel like it, squirt some soap in to the area of the rim you will be breaking first (opposite to the valve). Then the trick is to use the side stand and place the rear tire to the side of the engine. so that the long side of the side stand is parallel to the rim. then standing one foot on the wheel, pull the bike towards you and on to the tire. rock the bike back and forwards a few times and pop off the bead it comes. once the first bit is off you are home dry. Note: using the side stand with the wheel in the wrong position is quite useless, it seems the power will not go in to the right place. (James #848)

• I recently lost ANOTHER wrestling match with a rear tire. Even with the Tire Lever, three tire irons and lots of Ruglyde (tire lube), I could only manage to remove the old tire, get one bead of the new tire on, with the second bead just under 2/3 on before meeting my match (and scratching the rim deeply in several places). The guy at the Yamaha shop thought I was a wuss (by his look) when I asked him to "just finish mounting it." Ten minutes later (with the aid of his tire mounting machine) he had a new respect for F650 rear wheels/tires. (Marty #436)

• I removed the old Trailwings and installed the new Dunlop D604s yesterday. The front tire was not hard. I only had tire irons but it was ok. The rear tire was different. Finally I got it, but it was not easy. Not really sure how it finally happened but wow! Putting the new tire on was not as hard as taking the old one off but it’s surprising how tough the tires are. When inflating the new tires if you put the slippery stuff on the inside edge of the rim, the tire seats very nicely. Summary: you can break the bead with only tire irons; use the slippery tire stuff (or something else but anything free from BMW is good) including when you’re ready to inflate the tire; use something to protect the rims from the tire irons; balancing the wheels with jack stands and the axle works good. Will in CA

• Napa sells RuGlyde for $14 a gallon. Buy some. Use LOTS. You'll cuss less. Flash #412

• I went in with some friends and bought a tire machine. I highly recommend it if you have the means. I think we paid 400.00 dollars. The machine has paid for itself many times over. The machine we have is a Coats 200. Steve#417

Q. Got my first flat, pulled a huge pin out of my rear tire and have some Questions. What's the deal with slime, can I use it? Will it help my situation now? The tire thread is fairly worn (about 7K on the bike). Should I just get a new tire and tube?

• You're going to want a new tube installed. If the tire is worth keeping a small hole from a nail shouldn't be a concern. Slime is more of an emergency repair in my opinion. It is messy and if you are going to have the tire fixed the person doing the work will like it better without the slime to deal with. However, it will allow you to refill the tire and ride it to the shop. It may be too late but leaving the pin in and refilling with air might be good enough to get you to a nearby shop. Once you pull the pin you're stuck with a fast leak. Riding with a flat can be dangerous. I'd do it BUT I'm a bit nuts AND I'd do it real slowly and probably not in any kind of city traffic. The bead on the rear tire is pretty hard to unseat but if it does unseat you could damage the tire, wheel and/or end up on your arse. (Brad N. #1002)
• I'd go with a new tire and tube. I had a hole in my stock rear tire also at 7000 miles and figured it was smart money to just go with new. Hannibal #888

Q. What about using dish-soap or other lubricant to aid in mounting a tire?

• If you mount your tire using dishwashing soap as a lubricant, you will find that the lubricant simply dries. When subjected to water, it becomes a lubricant again. Now suppose you take your Dakar off-road. Now suppose you find that you need to lower the tire pressure to about 10 psi to make the tires function well in the loose dirt/gravel. Now suppose you traverse a creek. Now suppose your tire lubricant decides to become a lubricant again. Suddenly, the rim rotates in the tire and rips the valve stem out. A patch kit won't fix that. If you are going to carry a liquid for that purpose, carry Son of a Gun (tm) or Armor-All (tm), or better yet, tire mounting lubricant. Those fluids get absorbed by the rubber in short order. (Flash #412)

• I absolutely agree with what Flash said. Too much lube/residue or the wrong type of lube is a BAD Thing. Changing a tire on the bench, I use no lube, maybe a damp rag. Changing on the road, I concede you need something. Even dish soap diluted 1000:1, but not full strength. Unless maybe you have rim locks. (Todd #389)

• To stir some controversy: Dishwashing soap is very usable as a lubricant when changing tires. This is also the CW among gang at the Norwegian Offroad Touring Club). They're also very clear that any silicon based lubricant is a very bad idea. Soap or not, a lubricant should be used when mounting tires, because a) the tire maker says you should. b) The guy at the tire shop uses it. Ask to have some of his lubricant goo in a small jar if you're woozy about the soap. c) It will save you a lot of effort and grief if you lubricate. You don't need the largest tire irons in the shop if you lubricate properly. d) The bead will seat perfectly, first time and no hassles if lubricated properly. (Oyvind#1052)

• I do not recommend Armor All for a tire lube. Although I used to use it too, eventually I realized that it stays slippery and will make the tire more likely to pop off the rim if it deflates on the road, or slip on the rim if the pressure gets low – possibly tearing the valve stem out of the tube. In a pinch, use soapy water. Richard #230

• This subject has come up in the past, and I must say I'm still a skeptic. I've used Armor All type material to assist in tire changing for over 15 years and have never experienced any bad results. All my riding friends do the same, and none of them have either. Changing tires without some sort of lubricant would be terribly difficult. (I tried it once and damaged the bead trying to lever it over the rim.) So the question here is, is Armor All more likely to cause this to happen than other lubricants? I personally doubt it as some (not a lot) of the Armor All is rapidly absorbed into the tire material which then quickly becomes tacky, and isn't slippery at all within a fairly short period of time. Perhaps if someone went out immediately after mounting tires in this way and subjected a tire which was neither a tubeless tire nor a tire with a rim lock (as dirt bikes have) to very high stresses, it could spin on the rim. Otherwise, to me it seems exceedingly unlikely, but that's only a personal view, of course, and could be wrong. For many years I have thought that a petroleum-based lubricant should never be used on tires. But, I recently had tires mounted at a long-established motorcycle accessory store in the Bay Area. The employee who did the work was obviously very experienced and very skilled at changing tires, far more than I am. To my utter amazement, he used WD 40 as a lubricant. I've since worn those tires out and they suffered no ill effects from the WD 40, so apparently my long-held opinion was wrong. Perhaps this is one of those "your mileage may vary" areas. Or, putting it another way, one person's "conventional wisdom" may not be the same as another’s. I would be very interested in hearing if anyone has actually experienced tires spinning on the rim and tearing the stem, and the circumstances. If this is a real possibility with Armor All, I had better change my ways. Mike #926

• So I discovered the hard way what happens if you neglect to wipe off the excess Armor All you used to mount the new tires. Combine that with a tight, quick U-turn and you find the horizontal attitude real quick. To make it more embarrassing do it in front of a van full of people on their way to a Mother's Day brunch. The new tires worked a lot better after I cleaned them up and hit them with a sander and 100 grit paper. I hope the van mom didn't use me as example in a lecture to the kids on the dangers of motorcycles! Mom may not realize the dangerous part is the dim-wit behind the bars. :-0 Brad #1002

 

Q. Will not be going far off road in near future but have been to places where cell-phone has no signal and wondered whether I should be carrying gear to repair a tube. Can't find much in FAQ? (you can now!)

• You'll find everything that you need in one of the Touratech repair kits. (http://www.touratech.com/ -> English -> products -> repair kit). You can get either a 'Tire repair Kit' which has a pump or a 'puncture repair kit' which is based around a CO2 cartridge system. Personally, I have both and combined the two together having an extra set of repair goodies and a gauge to spare. You can use the BMW type puncture repair kit to patch a tube. The CO2 helps inflate it quickly after you fix it (saves lots of pumping) but the pump is always nice to have in case you screw up the CO2 (or in case you run out). That's why BOTH inflation implements are nice (read de rigueur) to have). You don't have to go off-road to appreciate being able to fix your own bike. Why bother using the phone and waiting then going the tow and fix when you can do it yourself in a FLASH (yes Pun intended). You'll have to take the wheels off to get access to the tube, although you don't need to take the whole tire off to get at the tube to patch it. No center stand, no problem, just either find something to leverage the bike up on (like a berm or rocks) or just get the wheel ready to take off, lie the bike down on it's side, and pop the wheel off. Tie wraps need to be the REALLY BIG/STRONG type which usually means MARINE SUPPLY variety. I carry a few on really long backcountry stuff but have THANKFULLY never needed to use them. They're really much more of an emergency band-aid to keep an un-inflated tire/tube on the rim at low speed." (davidhpark, #711)

• The tyres on the 650 are seriously hard to remove and it's very easy to pinch tubes when doing field repairs. And yes, I *HAVE* field patched tubes, for me the 650 is in the "too hard" category. You have pliers in the BMW tool kit to remove nails, I'd say slime + some means of inflation is your best bet. CO2/pushbike pump/compressor are common choices. The bike pump works, but is hard work, and on an F there seems to be nowhere to stash one. Only relies on muscle power but uses a lot of that. CO2 works, until you run out of CO2 .... Compressor is probably the best bet, the bike is electric start anyway so if you can't run the compressor, you can't start the bike either. Slime is a terrible long term fix, but you can crawl to the nearest gas station in short hops if you have to, and stopping every 5k's to re-inflate will STILL be faster than a single tyre change. (If the hole is so large you can't do that, I doubt you'll patch it either .....) (Pete)

Q. How do I get the valve stem back through the rim?

 

• I sometimes have to use my valve stem tool to help it through. This is one of gizmos that you use to clean up the treads and such on the valve stem. You could probably use something else but be careful not to screw up the threads inside the stem or damage the tube. -bg
• Generally, I put VERY LITTLE air in the tube when I insert it. I also start by only inserting the tube section where the stem is located, and push it through before the rest of the tube is in the tire, using the nut (not tight at all) to hold it in place. I then put in the rest of the tube, and add a little more air. Again not much, just enough to keep from pinching the tube. Then spoon on the other side of the tire. -Gar, Chain Gang #673
• When the valve stem showed up in the hole I simply stuck the long end of an allen wrench into the valve stem (with the core removed) and pulled it through. Easy! -Savant
• See also the next topic ("not pinching the tube") for more comments on threading the valve stem - Scott #1244

Q. Any advice on not pinching the tube when reinstalling the tire?

 

• You need to inflate the tube slightly when installing it. I also coat the tube with baby powder, which helps it slide around. I have yet to pinch a tube using that method. Make sure that your tire irons have smooth rounded ends. What drives me nuts is trying to get the tube valve through the hole in the rim. This is really tough on the hands. I have tried tying a string around the valve stem and pulling it though as well as fishing for it with a small screwdriver to encourage it to poke out of the rim, so I can get the valve nut installed to hold it in place. -Richard #230
• Thanks for the advice. I will post an update when I get this done. The tube comes coated with a white powdery substance. I got the valve stem through buy guiding it with a screwdriver both times and it was not too bad. -MasterITRIT #F650-1231

Q. What options are there for inflating a tire after a repair?

A. The Tyre Pump section of the Tools FAQ says it all.

Q. What options for Tools are there for Breaking the Bead?

1. Tire Wizard - http://www.ctm-design.com/prolevr/

Here are some photos of the Tire Wizard in action.

• A buddy of mine borrowed mine (I've never had a need to use it myself) and he struggled until reaching the boiling point and then gave up on it. The new item mentioned by Richard (Tyreplier) looks like a better option if you are headed out on a looonngggg trip. The Wizard weighs more too." (RogerN #827)

• So I used that confounded contraption known as the Tire Wizard this afternoon to change the front tire (19" TKC80). I picked the front to get some practice before doing the rear. It took me about 90 minutes including the time I spent bandaging my hand. I remember now why it's a good idea to wear gloves when doing this kind of work. (???)

• I'm not so sure I like this thing. It is kind of scary and a bit tricky to use. Does this thing really make tire work easier? The tool kind of wobbles all over the place and you have to really work at getting it positioned just so or else it slips off with gusto. They say practice helps but how many of these do you really want to do just for practice! I have to say it is strong though. Strong enough to survive a few angry flings around the garage. But I haven't sweat and sworn this much in a long while. I told my wife, after she asked if I needed help, to stay as far away from me as possible. I was NOT in a good mood. Despite all my ranting and whining I guess I'll give the rear a shot. I fully expect to end up taking it to a shop to be completed but the sweating and swearing reminded me of the good old days when I fixed things with brute force and ignorance. Too bad the T.W. doesn't come with a video. Might shorten the learning curve and create a few satisfied users instead of grumps like me (BradG #1002)

• Yeah, baby! I win. That rear tire was no match for me. :-) Used the Tire Wizard on the rear wheel to swap TKC80s this afternoon. Done in 60 minutes. It was actually easier than the front but only because of the practice I got doing the front yesterday. The T.W. did make popping the rear off the bead a simple matter. It was easier to use the second time around but I still think it's kind of whacky. On installation I used a trick to get that last few inches of the second bead over side of the rim. It is real important to get as much of the new tire into the rim drop as possible but it is not easy to get it stay there. I got it to stay using a tie down strap wrapped around the wheel and tire. Squeezing the beads together and into the drop as I cinched up the strap. This holds it in place while you lever the rest of the bead over the rim. Lastly I think this part is easier with irons and then the T.W.. BTW, I was unable to do this without marking up the rims here and there. You've got to just not care in trade for self reliance and saving a few bucks. (BradG #1002)

• The Tire Wizard won't help you remove the tire any more than tire irons, but it will help you break the bead. If you have something else to break the bead, tire irons are fine. (Mark #403)

• No more Mr. Wizard. I just finished mounting the new Anakees and I have to say it just keeps getting easier. Not that it is easy, because it still requires some effort. This time around I popped the beads on both front and rear by standing on them. Then I used the Tire Wizard just for the tire irons to peel and remount the new ones. Honestly, breaking the bead was easier this way than with the Wizard. If you weigh less than 180 pounds, “your mileage may vary”. Brad #1002

• Some tires can not be broken by standing on them. The T66 was an example of this. The Wizard works very well for breaking the bead on any bike tire. I used mine to fix a front tire on a Honda last weekend. The rider was riding 2-up and did not have a clue what to do. We were in the north Georgia mountains late Saturday afternoon. The only other option for them was a truck. Steve#417

2. Tyreplier - http://www.extremeoutback.com

3. C-Clamp

• A large C-clamp, available at any hardware store, can be made to work to break the bead of the rear tire. That is what I used to use for years, before I bought my current 3 specialized bead breakers. (Richard #230)

4. Manual Tire Changer

I recently got the Harbor Freight tire-changing device (parts 34542 & 42927), and I've spent the night trying to figure out how to use it. The instructions are horrendous. I haven't seen the Tire Wizard's instructions, but I bet these would rival those... it's like they omitted about 80% of what needs to be done. So I gave up and took my tires to a dirt shop. Here are some pictures of my shabby operation: the whole operation; the top half, i.e. the Motorcycle Tire Attachment; the bottom half.

  Seacuke #1214

• Great pictures. But the picture doesn't show the bead breaker lever in action, or the guy with the big bar, levering the tire off the rim by using the centre axle as a pivot – which is why the changer has to be bolted to a solid floor mounting. Without it mounted solidly, it just tips over when you start pulling on the bar. Don't ask me how I know – I'll never tell. When you buy a tool from Harbor Freight, you get Chinese-English, a blurry hand-drawn picture of the device with arrows and names that don't always make sense and a separate insert from Harbor Freight's attorneys telling you not to poke the tool up your a$$. Richard #230

• I had posted those pictures asking a question about how to break the bead with the pictured tire changing device. To actually break the bead with that tool, you put the tire on the ground and use the lever (it is on the right side of the third picture). Seacuke #1214
   

• Clear Instructions from Mark #403 for the Harbor Freight Motorcycle Tire Changer Attachment
  
  Put the tire on the ground and break the bead. Turn it over and do the other side. For the front wheel, I put a 2x4 on the other side of the wheel when the disk side is down to keep it off the ground.
  
  Now put the wheel in the clamps. Put the middle post in, before clamping the rim. Clamp. Use some lube. Wedge pointy side of the long bar (flat side against the rim) under the bead, bring the long bar across the wheel to pop the bead over, and use the centre bar as a pivot, pushing the long bar around in a circle to work the bead over the edge. When you get to the clamp arm and can't go any further, remove the long bar, and start again from a new position until you've got one bead over the rim.
  
  Remove the tube and swing it over the clamp arm and let it dangle out of the way.
  
  Repeat with the long bar, bringing the other bead up over the same side of the rim to remove the tire.
  
  Check rim tape. Remove centre bar, remove old tire and tube. Put new tire and tube where the old ones were, noting the rotation direction on the tire. Replace centre bar.
  
  Put tire on top of rim and push bead over edge as far as possible by hand. Use other end of long bar ("hook end") and hook over rim right at the edge of the bead where you want to keep pushing it down. Long bar goes hook-side down with the other end of the hook pointing in the air...this will be pushing on the bead to seat it, and will run along the other bead at the same time. Again, using the centre bar as a fulcrum, push the long bar clockwise to seat the bead. Sometimes the hook wants to work itself out. Keep the push-end of the long bar a bit elevated. You'll get it. When one side is over the rim, put your tube in...use a little talcum. Now work on the second bead in the same way as the first.
  
  Take the wheel out of the clamp before inflating or you won’t get it out. I inflate twice. Once to seat the bead, then I remove the valve core to let the tube settle, and inflate again to proper pressure. I remove the weights, put the wheel onto the centre bar of the tire changer, and lay it across two jack stands. Spin. Heavy side ends up at the bottom. Put a piece of tape at the top of the rim to mark your spot. Spin again and see if it ends up in the same place. Once you've found the heaviest spot, put a couple weights at the opposite side, close to centre. Spin and see if it's pretty balanced. Add weight as necessary.
  
  And as for bolting it to the floor...once you see how much force you need to apply to the long bar pivoting around the centre bar, you'll see why there is absolutely NO WAY you could use this thing any other way. It MUST be very securely anchored.
  
  Good luck. Once you get it, you'll see it's not so bad. Mark #403

5. Kowa Tools Bead Breaker

• I saw an ad in the MOA Owners News magazine for Kowa Precision Tools which showed a picture of their KF-1-20 motorcycle tire bead breaker. It looks just like a very large C-clamp (which means that it should work just fine). There was no price in the ad, so I visited their web site, and guess what? The tool is not listed. However, I have one of their catalogues at home and have found their tools to be of a better quality and higher price than similar tools from Motion Pro. I guess anyone that wants to inquire about the bead breaker will have to call: 1-800-824-9655 Richard #230

6. Tire Irons

• Recently I have had good success breaking the bead on a rear F650 wheel with Aerostich's Titanium Tar Irons. The trick is to go around and around and around and around, levering the bead toward the centre of the wheel a millimetre or two at a time until you finally get it far enough in to use your boot heels. Lubrication helps a LOT. I use Son of a Gun (or equivalent) because I'm too lazy to buy a(nother) gallon of tire mounting lubricant, which works LOTS better. Flash #412

Studding Motorcycle tires

Written by Chppdlvvr 17 feb 2003

Studding motorcycle tires is a BAD IDEA. Do not install studded tires on a motorcycle unless you are prepared to crash. Prepare or update your last will and testament and tape or otherwise securely fasten a waterproof copy of your emergency contact information to your bike AND your helmet before rolling an inch on studded tires. This is no joke.

Tire Selection
The most important part of this process is the tire. The knobbier a tire is, the better it will do in fresh snow and slush. On the other hand, dirt specific tires have less of a contact patch and will not stop as well as a more street oriented tire on dry pavement and will also have less traction than a tire with more studs and surface area on compact snow. I decided to go with a 90/10 Kenda Trakmaster II DOT knobby. Mainly I got those tires because they were cheap and they were one of the few sets of matched knobbies I could buy. I also tried a 50/50 tire, but the casing was too hard to accept the stud. Some tires just won’t take studs.

 

Mileage
In nearly 1000 miles, my tires show minimal rolling wear and the edges of the front tire are slightly rounded on one side from braking. This is due to the metal spikes sticking out of the tire- they relieve the individual knobs of a significant amount of pressure but also decrease the size of your contact patch and reduce traction on bare pavement. Keep in mind that reduced contact patch = extended braking distances and less overall traction, especially when cornering.

 

Studs
The studs I used for my tires are 13mm automobile studs. They are inserted using a stud gun attached to an air compressor. This is expensive equipment and I was able to get my tires done at the local tire shop instead for $10/tire. You may have to search for a tire shop willing to work with you. This is a generally easy project but it can be difficult to find the right dimensions for the studs to seat right. I took each tire in 3 different times for test studs before drilling all of the holes. My shop also used some kind of lubricant to help seat the studs that reduced the amount of knobs that had cracks around the edges of the holes. Using glue is not necessary.

Pattern
I decided to stud about half of the knobs on my front tire to make it perform better on dry/wet pavement. I haven’t noticed any problems with this setup but my minimum braking distance still increased about 30 percent from the original Bridgestone Trailwings. I studded every knob on the rear tire except for the outside edges. I figured if I ever got that far over on snow I was going down anyway and I might as well have the extra traction for emergency manoeuvres on dry/wet pavement. So far the outside knobs still look new.

Drilling
The diameter of the stud is just under 3/16”. I used a 3/16” all-purpose drill bit with a locking collar for the front tire and I wrapped the bit in duct tape for the rear tire after losing the set screw for the collar. I preferred the duct tape, but it’s harder to set up. When drilling the front tire, the collar slipped once and the bit went straight through the tire. I repaired the hole with a string patch and trimmed it flush with a knife on both sides. If you drill a hole completely through the tire, do not try to stud it. It could rip the casing and ruin your tire.

 

I found that the perfect depth was exactly the length of the stud- from base to tip. This may differ from tire to tire but it’s a good place to start. The rear tire was a harder compound than the front and required a little more time per hole and I had to stop the drill and roll the bit around to loosen up the rubber. To date I still have every stud; none have fallen out. The only way to remove a stud once it’s in your tire is with a good pair of pliers. I decided that it’s better to drill a little deeper and then do a couple hundred miles of pavement to seat all of the studs and wear the rubber down to the proper depth- just poking the tip out of the rubber.

 

Performance
These tire have worked out much better than I’d hoped. The handling is definitely different due to the shape of the new tires and the studs track badly in rain grooves, but I can straight-line accelerate in the snow nearly as fast as I can on dry pavement in snow up to 2" deep. I have ridden in snow up to 10” deep with no problems at all. I actually prefer deeper snow to well-traveled snow. Traction is still shaky on compact snow but on ice, fresh snow, slush, and bare pavement the tires have performed beautifully.

 

Opinions on studding tires

• Q: Has anyone ever inserted small sheet metal screws; say #6 by 3/8 inches to the tires for increased traction in ice and hard packed snow? Years back, I took long screws and inserted them from the inside and used an old YAMAKAWASUKI on the frozen lake. I was a lot of fun! This does not work for street use because of tube punctures. One would need carbide headed screws so they won't wear out so fast on the payment. Not sure where to source those or it they even exist. I checked out some snowmobile track studs but they are too long. Any other die hard (fools) out there? Gonna get rusty if I don't ride....(Steve#1059 in MA)
• A:  While ice racing screws give excellent traction on ice, they destroy traction on concrete and asphalt. Pick your poison. This time of year there are always ads for them in the back of Motorcycle News, the weekly newspaper. You could probably Google for them successfully with "motorcycle ice racing screws." (Flash #412)
• A: Studded tires are illegal in Illinois. Too many boy racers were "tearing up the streets" with them. (Marty #436)
• A: I've put street-legal studded tires on my Dakar for the winter. These are, originally Swedish made, Trelleborg "T-644 Army Special". They were developed as an all-year tire for the Swedish Army, which makes extensive use of motorcycles. Their advantage is that they are made with a winter rubber compund which retains its softness in sub-zero conditions. They are studded by a company in Oslo, Norway. Another alternative, for pure off-road, non street-legal fun is the Trelleborg "T-454 Winter Friction". This is a factory-studded competition tire. You can also have a set of knobbies studded by any local tire shop with the appropriate tools, or buy your own tools and do it yourself. If you're considering having a set of studded knobbies, be aware that a tire such as the TKC-80 is TOTALLY useless in the snow. The big knobs are unable to sink into and grip the snow. For snow use you'll want a street-legal motocross tire with smaller and fewer knobs that will dig in and give you a good grip. Also, studs for MC street use are generally smaller than car studs. You may also want to limit the number of studs in the center of the tire. This goes especially for the front tire. Studs give poor friction on bare asphalt when braking. By leaving the center free of studs, you'll still have fairly good braking on asphalt, while the studs on the side will grip into the ice and snow when the tire compresses under braking and will also give you grip where you need it for turning. (Oyvind #1052)
• A: Trelleborg is a Swedish-based global supplier of industrial rubber products. They sold their motorcycle tires division, including rights to the brand name, to an East European company some years ago. There are no web sites available for the tires, AFAIK, but Trelleborg has several sales offices around the US which may be able to get hold of these tires. Go to http://www.trelleborg.com (Oyvind #1052)

What Every Cyclist Should Know About
Flat Tires

A Work in Progress

by Sheldon "Tsssssss..." Brown

Airless Tires | Blow Outs | Boots | CO₂ Cartridges | Compressors | Flats | Glueless Patches | Kevlar ® | Patching | Patch Kits | Pinch Cuts | Pressure | Pressure Gauges | Prevention | Pumps | Punctures | Quick-Release Brakes | Quick-Release Wheels | Rim Tapes | Slow Leaks | "Snake Bites" | "Thornproof" Tubes | Tires | Tire Inspection | Tire Installation | Tire Seating | Tire Liners | Tire Removal | Tire Repair | Tire Levers | Tire Savers | Tools | Tube Inspection | Tube Patching | Valves | Valve Adaptors | Wheel Removal | Wheel Replacement | Wrenches

What's Inside Your Tire?

People usually think that tires are made of rubber. This is understandable, because rubber is all that you can see but it's a serious oversimplification.

A tire is actually made up of three parts:

1. The beads
2. are two hoops of strong steel wire (or, sometimes Kevlar ®.)
3. The cords
4. , cloth forming the body of the tire, woven between the two beads. Most modern tires use nylon cords.
5. The rubber
6. , which covers all the other parts. The rubber on the part that contacts the road is thicker, and is called the tread.

A bicycle tire is not airtight by itself, so it uses an inner tube, which is basically a doughnut-shaped rubber balloon. The inner tube has a valve to allow you to blow it up.

Valves

There are two types of valves in common use for bicycle tires:

• Schrader
• valves are the same as the valves used on automobile tires. They are common on less-expensive bicycles, particularly those with wide rims and tires. Schrader valves are also sometimes called "American" or "automotive" valves.

  Schrader valves have a removeable valve core, which may be unscrewed with a special wrench that is often found on better valve caps. They have a spring-loaded valve mechanism. There is a small pin in the center of the valve hole which must be pushed in to put air in (or to let air out.) Before the introduction of the Zé HP pump in the 1970's, there was no portable pump that would do a decent job of inflating high-pressure tires with Schrader valves, which led to the popularity of:

• Presta
• or "French" valves are smaller in diameter than Schraders. This makes them a bit lighter, and allows a smaller hole to be drilled in the rim (desirable for very narrow rims). Presta valves are used on most high-performance bicycles, and all tubulars.

  Presta valves don't use a spring, but they have a captive knurled nut to hold the core tight. Before you can pump up a Presta tube, you must loosen this knurled nut. It is also a good idea to tap the end of the pin, to break the seal loose, because they are sometimes sticky. After inflating the tube, you should re-tighten the valve nut to keep air from escaping.

Each type of valve requires a different type of pump fitting, but you can get an inexpensive adaptor to let you use a Schrader pump on a Presta valve.

Presta tubes may be used in rims that are drilled for Schrader valves, but a Schrader valve won't fit through the valve hole on a rim drilled for Prestas. Presta drilled rims may easily be drilled or reamed to accommodate Schrader valves.

Schrader valve	Presta valve closed	Presta valve open	Presta valve with adaptor

There is a third type of valve, very rarely seen, which has a bottom similar to a Schrader and necks down to about the size of a Presta. This is a Woods valve, formerly popular in the British Isles and Asia. This is also sometimes referred to as a "Dunlop" valve.

Older low-tech Woods valves work with rubber tubing and spit, but newer ones have spring loaded mechanisms.

Woods or Dunlop valve

Rim Tapes

The interior surface of the rim sometimes has burrs which can damage inner tubes, and the ends of the spokes may also cause punctures. For this reason, a rim tape is needed to protect the inside of the inner tube.

Some rim tapes are simple strips of rubber, similar to the rubber used to make the inner tube. These are adequate for low-pressure use. Better rim tapes are adhesive cloth or plastic.

Types of Flats

When your tire goes flat, it means that there is a hole in the inner tube. There may or may not be anything wrong with the tire itself.

Flat tires can be divided into four groups:

1. Slow leaks
2. take long enough to go flat that the bicycle may actually be ridden, but the tire will need to be pumped up more often than it should. It is normal for a tube to lose air over a period of weeks. If you put your bike away for the winter and come back in the spring, the tires will likely be soft or flat, but this doesn't necessarily mean that there is anything wrong with them, they may just need to pump them up.

   If you use high-pressure tires, you should check the pressure at least once per week.

   Slow leaks that take more than an hour or so to go down can often only be repaired by replacing the inner tube, since it may be impossible to find the hole.

3. Punctures
4. are caused by running over sharp things which poke a hole through the tire and into the tube. Punctures may be caused by glass slivers, thorns, nails, bits of wire or other small sharp objects.

   The typical puncture puts a small hole in the tire, which doesn't matter. Patching or replacing the inner tube is the fix for punctures...but don't forget to remove the pointy thing from the tire before you put it back on!

5. Pinch Cuts
6. result from hitting stones, curbs, or sharp edges of holes in the road surface. When the tire hits a sharp edge hard enough, it compresses so that it bottoms out. The inner tube can get pinched between the rock and the rim. Pinch cuts usually put two small holes in the tube. This type of damage is sometimes called a "snake bite" because the two holes look like the wound made by the fangs of a snake.

   Pinch cuts sometimes ruin tires as well as tubes, but usually the tire will not be damaged.

   The impact that causes a pinch cut can also make a dent or "blip" in your rim.

7. Blow Outs
8. are sudden losses of air, usually accompanied by a loud BANG! Since the inner tube is just a rubber balloon, if you pump it up outside of a tire, it will stretch bigger and bigger the more air you put into it, until it pops. The inner tube will not take much pressure by itself, it needs to be held inside of a tire to get up to full pressure. If the tire doesn't hold the tube in all around, the tube will pop.

Wheel Removal

Although it is sometimes possible to repair a flat without removing the wheel from the bike, usually it is easier if you do take the wheel off.

• Release the brake
• if your bike has hand brakes. Good-quality "road" bikes usually have caliper brakes with a special "quick-release" mechanism to let the brake shoes open up wide enough to fit the tire through. You don't actually need this feature to remove a flat tire, but it is helpful. There will be a button on the brake handle, or a lever on the caliper (or cable hanger) to release the brake a bit.

  Unfortunately, bikes with cantilever brakes, such as most mountain, hybrid, and touring bicycles, usually don't have quick releases on the brakes, so you may have to completely disable the brake by unhooking the transverse cable from one of the arms.

• Nutted or "bolt-on" axles
• use nuts to hold the wheel to the frame. They are used on older or less-expensive bicycles. To remove the wheel, you will need to loosen the nuts on each end of the axle. It is usually not necessary to actually remove the nuts, just loosen them and leave them on the axle. (Less work and less risk of loosing the nuts/washers.)

  You will need a wrench for this. Most rear axles use the 15 mm size, fronts may use 1/2", 14 mm, or 15 mm. If you don't have the correct size wrench, you can use an adjustable wrench. Turn the nuts counter-clockwise to loosen them.

  Do not try to do this job with pliers. Even if you do manage to loosen the nuts with pliers, you won't be able to get the nuts tight enough when you put the wheel back in. In addition, the pliers are likely to damage the nuts so that the correct wrench will no longer fit!

  There should be a washer between each nut and the fork end, but one of the places that newer bikes cut corners is by leaving these washers off. If your bike has axle washers, use them. If the washers are serrated (have teeth) the teeth should press against the fork end.
• Quick-release axles
• are hollow, and a thin part called a "skewer" runs all the way through the axle. One end of the skewer is threaded, and has an acorn-shaped nut screwed on to it. The other end (usually placed on the bicycle's left side) uses a cam mechanism to secure the wheel. The cam is operated by a handle, which you can flip over to loosen the wheel. Pull the handle straight out away from the bike and flip it over. This will release the tension on the quick-release skewer, but you may need to loosen the mechanism a bit more before you can actually get the wheel out.

  To loosen the quick release skewer, once you have flipped the handle, hold the acorn nut with one hand, and turn the handle counterclockwise until it is loose enough to let you remove the wheel. Try not to completely unscrew the acorn nut, because there are a couple of little springs that could get lost if you take it off.

  If you're not exactly clear how the quick release works, get somebody to explain it to you before you try removing your wheel. Misuse of the quick release can cause very serious injury!

• Front wheel
• removal is fairly straightforward: Lift the bike by the handlebars, and the wheel will just fall out.
• Rear wheel
• removal is a bit more complicated, but not usually too difficult, if you go about it in the correct sequence:
  • Derailer Gears
  • Derailer gears look as if they would be the hardest, but are actually the easiest type of rear wheel to remove and re-install! The trick is to shift to the smallest (outermost) rear sprocket before loosening anything. This gets the derailer as far out of the way as possible. (It doesn't matter where the front derailer is.)

    After freeing the axle by loosening the quick release or axle nuts:

    1. Stand to the left of the rear wheel.
    2. Use your left hand to lift the bicycle by the seat tube.
    3. Use your right hand to pull the upper part of the rear derailer backward, so that the jockey (upper) pulley swings down and behind the cluster.
    4. If necessary, nudge the wheel forward with your right knee, and the wheel will fall out.
    5. Lay the bicycle down on its left side, so that there is no weight resting on the derailer...this is the most fragile part of the bike!
  • Hub Brakes
  • , such as foot-operated "coaster" brakes, or hand-operated "drum" or "roller" brakes built into the rear hub will have a flat metal arm, called a "reaction arm" which will attach underneath the left chainstay. This must be disconnected from the chainstay before the wheel may be removed. In most cases, this means undoing the bolt which holds the end of the arm to the metal strap or braze-on on the chainstay.

    In the case of a hand-operated "drum" brake, you will also need to disconnect the brake cable, which can usually be done by unhooking it from the fittings it attaches to.

  • Internal Gears
  • • Indicator Chains
    • Sturmey-Archer internally-geared hubs (most commonly 3-speed) use a small chain called an "indicator spindle" which fits into the end of the axle. The gear cable attaches to this chain. The threaded fitting at the end of the cable must be unscrewed from the end of this little chain. This will require re-adjusting the gears when the wheel is re-installed. This procedure is explained in my Sturmey-Archer article.
    • Bell Cranks
    • Shimano 3-speed hubs (and some Sturmey-Archer 5-speeds) use a bell crank to translate a pull on the gear cable into a push on a loose fitting pushrod that fits into the axle.

      The Shimano 3-speed is adjusted in middle gear, so that the letter "N" is centered in the window of the bell crank.

      Sturmey-Archer S-5 bell cranks should be adjusted so that the cable is taut when the wide-range position is selected with the left shift lever.

    • Sachs Clickboxes
    • Sachs 5- and 7-speed hubs use a "Clickbox" which is held onto the axle by a thumbscrew. No adjustment is normally needed (or possible) to the Clickbox. Once the Clickbox is removed from the axle, take care that the pushrod(s) don't fall out and get lost.

      Sachs 3-speed (including the 3 X 7) use an indicator spindle similar to that of the Sturmey-Archer hubs.

    • Shimano Nexus Hubs
    • require the cable to be unhooked from the control ring. This is explained on my Nexus Mechanics Page. With Nexus hubs, it is often easier to open up one side of the tire and patch the tube on the bike, because this type of hub is the most difficult to remove.

Tire Removal

Before you remove the tire, take a quick look at it to see if the cause of the flat is obvious. There may be a nail sticking out, or a hole in the sidewall, or some other obvious problem. More often not, the cause will not be obvious from the outside, but a quick look can sometimes save time.

To remove the tire, you need to pull the bead off the rim, one side at a time. The diameter of the bead is smaller than the outer diameter of the rim. As long as the tire is centered on the rim, it cannot come off. To remove one side of the tire, you need to put the bead off-center. One part of the bead needs to go down into the valley at the bottom of the rim, so that the opposite side of the bead can be pried over the edge of the rim. This can often be done by hand, but usually is much easier if you use tire levers (tire levers used to be called "tire irons", but nowadays, most of them are made of fibreglas or other plastics.) Most tire levers have a rounded end and a hooked end.

Tire levers commonly come in sets of three, because three is the most you ever need. For a difficult tire, stick the rounded end of one tire lever under the bead (starting somewhere away from the valve--that only complicates matters.) Insert the lever right where one of the spokes lines up. Pry one side of the tire bead over the edge of the rim, then hook the end of the tire lever to the nearest spoke. Insert another tire lever two spokes away from the first, and repeat the process. The third lever goes two spokes away from either of the first two. When the third lever is in place, the middle one will fall out, and you can repeat the procedure. After some number of times, the tire will be loose enough that you can just run a tire lever around the rest of the rim to pull the whole side over.

This is the procedure for tight-fitting tires, particularly for narrow tires. Most tires will come off with less trouble.

After you have removed one side of the tire, reach in and pull out the inner tube. Remove the tube completely, while leaving the other side of the tire in place.

Tube Inspection

Keep track of which way the tube was facing in the tire, and pump it up. You will usually be able to find the hole by the hissing sound as the air escapes. If you have a slow leak, it may not make enough noise to hear, unless you pump the tube up enough to stretch it out. Tubes can commonly be inflated to twice their normal thickness or more without risk of popping them, and, as the tube stretches, the hole also gets bigger, making it easier to find. For very slow leaks, as a last resort, you can immerse the inflated tube in water and look for bubbles. Don't do this unless you need to, though, because you can't patch a wet tube.

When you find the hole, make note of where it is with respect to the valve hole, also whether it is on the inner or outer side of the tube.

• If the hole is on the outer side of the tube, check the inside of the tire especially carefully in the area where the tube was punctured. It is very frustrating to install a new or patched tube and forget to remove the pointy object that caused the original problem!
• If the hole is on the inner side of the tube, check the inside of the rim. Although the rim tape is supposed to protect the tube from rim imperfections, sometimes it is not properly placed, and sometimes spoke ends can actually poke through the tape. Burrs and other sharp edges inside the rim can easily puncture tubes.

• If you find two holes, one above another, you probably have what is commonly called a "snake bite," a pinch cut resulting from hitting a stone or pavement break and pinching the tube between the rim and the rock. This sort of failure is most often caused by insufficient tire pressure.

Tire Inspection

While you have the tire off the rim, examine the inside of it carefully. Thorns and glass slivers can hide, and may be difficult to remove. I find that pushing them back out through the tread, using a sharp instrument, is often helpful.

In addition to looking for sharp pointy things poking through, look also for broken cords or cuts in the fabric of the tire. If you find such cuts that run more than a millimeter or two, you should replace the tire when possible.

Tire Repair

If you're on the road and have a tire with a bad cut that could allow the tube to bulge through, you can make a temporary repair by installing a "boot" on the inside of the tire. This can be made of any flexible but non-stretchy material. The ideal thing is a piece cut from an old tire, because this will have the correct curved shape to begin with. I usually like to carry a strip 2-3 inches (50-75 mm) long, cut from an old tubular tire or a high-pressure road clincher. Mountain bikers sometimes use dollar bills folded over, or Mylar food wrappers.

One thing that is often tried, but doesn't work too well, is the rubber patches made for inner tubes...they are too stretchy.

A boot doesn't need to be glued in place, it will stay put just from the pressure of the inner tube against the tire.

Even the best of boots should only be considered a temporary repair. The tire will be less reliable, and you will feel a bump every time the tire goes around.

Patching

Inner tube patching is a very old, well established technology, and is quite reliable if done properly:

1. Select a patch appropriate to the size of the hole(s).
2. Use the sandpaper provided in the patch kit to buff the surface of the tube for an area a bit larger than the patch. You need to buff the tube so that it is no longer shiny. If there is a molding line running along the area where the patch is to be applied, you must sand it down completely, or it will provide an air channel.

   Avoid touching the buffed area with your fingers.

3. Apply a dab of rubber cement, then spread it into a thin coat, using your cleanest finger.

   Work quickly. You want a thin, smooth coat of cement; if you keep fiddling with it as it begins to dry, you'll risk making it lumpy. The thinner the cement, the faster it will dry.

4. Allow the cement to dry completely.
5. Make sure the cement has dried completely!
6. Peel the foil from the patch and press the patch onto the tube firmly.
7. Squeeze the patch tightly onto the tube. You're done!

If you follow this procedure, and use good materials, your patched tube should be basically as good as new.

Patch failure generally results from one of two errors:

• Not buffing the tube sufficiently, or:
• Applying the patch before the cement has dried fully.

Re-installing the Tire

Although you usually need tire levers or a similar tool to remove a tire from the rim, usually you should be able to re-install the tire with your bare hands.

If you try to pry the tire on using tools, you are very likely to wind up pinching the inner tube between the tool and the rim, puncturing it.

It is usually helpful to have a little bit of air in the tube just enough to make it sort of round rather than flat. With presta-valve tubes, I usually just blow air into the tube by mouth.

In the case of a brand new tube, it sometimes helps to stretch it out first. I do this by stepping into it and lifting away by hand.

Start by fitting the valve of the inner tube through the valve hole. Loosely secure the valve using a valve cap or retaining ring so it won't fall back through the hole. If your valve is threaded for a retaining ring, don't tighten it doen very far yet, just thread it on far enough that the valve can't fall out of the rim.

With the tube dangling down along one side of the wheel, install one edge of the tire onto the rim, so that the tube is hanging out of the open side. This is usually pretty easy.

Next, tuck the tube into the tire. It is best to start at the valve, work your way one third of the way around the tire, then go back to the valve and work around in the opposite direction.

Once the tube is in place, you're ready to install the second edge of the tire. This is the hardest part of the whole process, and the hardest part of this is the very last segment.

You should start at the valve, so that the valve won't be a complicating factor when you are trying to lift the last bit of tire bead over the edge of the rim.

As you install the second edge of the tire, try to push it toward the middle of the rim channel, where the channel is deepest. This will give you more slack.

Make sure that the tire bead is not sitting on top of the base of the valve. If it is, push the valve almost back through the rim to raise the reinforced patch at the base of the valve, and push the tire down around it.

For the last few inches of tire bead, some considerable force may be needed to pop it over the edge of the rim. (Some rim/tire combinations are easier than others.) If it is giving you difficult, resist the urge to press the middle part over. Instead, work alternately from each end of the section you're trying to lift over. Going back and forth from side to side will usually get it.

Most folks do this by holding the wheel horizontally, witht he open side up. Wrap your fingers around over the tire to press on the bottom of the rim, while you push the tire either with your thumbs or with the heels of your hands.

If you just can't get it by hand, here are some things to check:

• Make sure the tire bead isn't sitting on top of the tube anywhere.
• Make sure the tire bead you're working on is pushed as close to the middle of the rim channel as you can get it.
• The thinner the rim tape, the easier it is to mount the tire. If you have thick rim tape, consider replacing it.

Some tire/rim combinations are just too tight a fit, and you may need to use a tool. The best tool for this is the "Kool Stop bead jack" because this tool lifts the edge of the tire without going inside of it, so it is less likely to damage the inner tube than a conventional tire lever is.

Inflating the Tire

Once the tire is fully installed on the rim, you can inflate it, but it my not be as round as it should be. If it isn't, it is usualy because the tire needs to be "seated" so that it sits at the same depth in the rim all the way around.

You are less likely to have a problem seating your tire if you have the wheel off of the ground before you start. If the tire is completely flat and is sitting on the ground with the wieght of the bike on it, the part that is at the bottom is likely to seat incorrectly.

Generally, if your bike has quick release brakes, it's best to inflate the tire before putting the wheel back on the bike. If you don't have quick release brakes, though, it's easier to install the wheel before pumping up the tire.

It's best to start by inflating the tire just enough that it takes shape, maybe 20-30 psi, and to check that it is seated properly before full inflation. Check the seating by spinning the wheel and watching the tire.

Once you're sure the tire is properly seated, inflate it to full pressure.

Seating the Tire

Once the tire is inflated, you may see that it is not as round as the rim is. Usually this will take the form of having most of the circumference of the tire in the correct place, but there will likely be one place where the tire either bulges out too far, or dips inward toward the rim. It may do this on only one side.

Most tires have a "witness line" moulded into each sidewall. This is a narrow ridge of rubber running around the side of the tire, just outside of the rim. Spinning the wheel and observing the witness line will help you locate the place where the seating might be off. Note, it could be OK on one side of the tire but not the other.

Seating A Bulging Tire

If one part of the tire bulges out farther than the rest, deflate it right away or it may explode with a loud bang! Manually re-arrange the tire to get it centered on the rim before re-inflating it. Make sure the tire bead isn't sitting on top of part of the inner tube.

If the bulge is right at the valve, this usually indicates that the tire is sitting on the reinforcing patch at the base of the valve. Completely deflate the tire, and push the valve up into the tire with your thumb, while pressing the tire down around it, then pull the valve back down before inflating.

Seating a Tire that Dips Inward

If your tire dips inward at one spot, it is usually a sign of an unusually tight fit. This may make it a bit of a struggle to install the tire, but it also means that you can get away with considerable overinflation with no risk of blowing the tire off the rim. Indeed, the best way to seat a "dipping" tire is by temporariliy overinflating it until it "pops" into position.

In some cases it may be beneficial to lubricate the side of the tire. This can be done with soapy water, but I usually use spray window cleaner for this, because it doesn't leave a soapy residue on the braking surface of the rim.

Re-installing the Wheel

Re-installing the wheel is a critical task, and if you don't do it right, the wheel can fall out, leading to a serious crash. This is particularly important on the front wheel falls out you will probably land on your face!

Quick-release Wheels

Hundreds of people suffer gruesome injuries every year as a result of improper use of front wheel quick releases, but if you understand their operation, they're quite safe and secure.

Twist or Flip?

The quick release handle can move two ways: it can twist around like a wing nut, or it can flip 180 degrees outward and back, like a hinge.

The twisting motion adjusts the operating range of the quick release. You may have to hold onto the cone-shaped nut at the other end of the axle. You canÕt get it tight enough by turning it.

The hinge-like flipping motion is the locking motion. In the "open" position, the quick release handle curves away from the bike. In the "locked" position, it curves toward the bike. Never, ever ride with the lever in the open position!

If the quick release is too loose, this flipping motion will be too easy, but it will not hold the wheel safely--flip it back, turn it clockwise some more, then try again.

If it is too hard to flip, and you cannot get it to flip far enough to lie flat, loosen the adjustment by turning the handle counterclockwise.

It should take a good firm push to get the handle to lie flat.

It is a good idea to set it so that the handle points toward the rear when it is closed. This reduces the chance of getting it snagged on something. Turn the handle and the cone-shaped nut together to align the handle once it has been adjusted.

It is customary to install the front wheel so that the quick release handle is on the bicycleÕs left side.

Nutted or "Bolt-on" Wheels

Bicycles that don't use quick-release hubs normally have axles with nuts and washers that tighten against the fork ends of the bicycle. It is vitally important that these be securely tightened with a wrench. Newer bicycles mostly have "vertical drop outs" for the rear wheel, so the wheel can only go in one

Newer bicycles mostly have "vertical drop outs" for the rear wheel, so the wheel can only go in one *******

Check the Brakes!

Make sure to check the brakes after you have re-installed the wheel, especially if you disconnected it or used a quick release to help remove the wheel.

Prevention

Many flat tires are avoidable, but some are not. Some people seem particularly prone to them. This is often caused by poor road position: people who get an unusual number of flats often do so because they are riding in the gutter instead of the traffic lane.

The main travel lanes of most roads are kept fairly clear of glass and other dangerous debris by passing motor traffic. Cyclists who travel in the normal traffic areas of the roadway benefit from this.

Many cyclists, however, hug the curb out of timidity and an irrational fear of being struck from behind by a motorized vehicle. The area close to the curb is where all of the glass shards, sharp rocks and other junk winds up. If you ride too close to the curb, you greatly increase the risk of tire punctures.

Riding too close to the curb also, paradoxically, increases your risk of being hit by a car! By cowering in the gutter, you reduce your visibility. You also encourage motorists to pass you even when there is insufficient room to do so safely. You also reduce your maneuvering room, and may have nowhere to go if evasive action is required.

Pressure

Tire pressure is the hardness to which a tire is inflated. This is commonly measured in PSI (pounds per square inch), BAR, or kPa (kiloPascals.)

Tires commonly have a recommended inflation pressure range, or at least a maximum value moulded into the sidewall. These values are only very approximate, and experienced cyclists will rarely pay much attention to the rated pressure.

A major cause of "snake bite" flats is under-inflation. Under-inflated tires also have increased rolling resistance, making it harder to pedal.

Less well known is the downside of over-inflation; this causes a harsh ride and can also cause poor traction on bumpy surfaces (over-inflated tires tend to bounce, and a tire that is airborne, even for a moment, has no traction!)

A correctly-inflated tire will have a slight bulge where it is in contact with the road. The correct inflation pressure is determined by the weight load, the tire width, and, to some extent, the riding surface.

Airless tires

Of all the inventions that came out of the bicycle industry, probably none is as important and useful as Dr. Dunlop's pneumatic tire.

Airless tires have been obsolete for over a century, but crackpot "inventors" keep trying to bring them back. They are heavy, slow and give a harsh ride. They are also likely to cause wheel damage, due to their poor cushioning ability. A pneumatic tire uses all of the air in the whole tube as a shock absorber, while foam-type "airless" tires/tubes only use the air in the immediate area of impact.

Airless tire schemes have also been used by con artists to gull unsuspecting investors.

Tire Liners

Aftermarket tire liners, such as the well-known Mr. Tuffy, are not necessary for most cyclists. They make your wheels heavy and sluggish, and, if incorrectly installed, they can actually cause flats!

In some regions, notably the Southwestern U.S., cactus thorns are so common that such liners, or thornproof tubes, are a desirable option.

Kevlar ®

Kevlar ® is a very strong artificial fiber, used in bullet-proof vests and bicycle tires. Kevlar is used in tires two different ways, for two different purposes:

• Kevlar beads are used on some high performance tires. Replacing the normal wire bead with Kevlar ® saves about 50 grams per tire. Kevlar-bead tires have the additional advantage of being foldable, making them popular as emergency spare tires with touring cyclists. Kevlar-bead tires are somewhat harder to mount on a rim, and are more likely to blow off than wire-bead tires. They work best on "hook edge" rims.
• Kevlar-belted tires have a layer of kevlar under the tread surface, with the purpose of making the tire more resistant to punctures caused by small sharp objects, such as thorns and glass slivers. Kevlar-belted tires have slightly higher rolling resistance, price and weight than corresponding tires without the belt.

Thornproof Tubes

In some regions, notably the Southwestern U.S., cactus thorns are so common that special "thornproof" inner tubes are needed. These tubes are very thick on their outer circumference, so that a short thorn (or a small glass sliver) may be embedded in the tube without being able to reach in far enough to let the air out.

Thornproof tubes are heavy, and add to rolling resistance, so they are a poor choice for cyclists who don't ride in conditions that require them. See also tire liners.

Tire Savers

Some punctures are caused by glass slivers or thorns gradually working their way through the tire tread. What can happen is that a small sharp object may be picked up by the tire, then gradually work its way in over the course of several tire revolutions. The pointy thing is driven in like a nail into wood by repeated blows against the pavement. A formerly popular device called a "tire saver" or "flint snatcher" used a loosely spring piece of wire (generally made from a bicycle spoke) to constantly brush the tire tread in hope of dislodging glass slivers and the like before they could penetrate all the way to the inner tube.

These are of dubious value in practice, but may be of help in backward areas where throwaway beverage bottles are still legal, and glass slivers are a major problem.

Tools

CO₂ Cartridges | Compressors | Patch Kits | Pressure Gauges | Pumps | Tire Levers | Wrenches | Valve Adaptors

Pressure Gauges

Pressure gauges come in 3 types:

• "Pencil" gauges are the simplest and cheapest. They look like a pencil, with a fitting at one end that you can press against the valve. When you do so, a rod slides out of the other end. This rod is calibrated like a thermometer, and slides out farther the more pressure is in the tire. This type is most commonly used for Schrader valves (though Presta versions are also available.) Note that "pencil" gauges come in automotive and bicycle types. The difference is the pressure range they measure. Automotive pencil gauges commonly only read up to 50 PSI, while those intended for bicycle use run up to 120 PSI.
• "Dial" gauges are a bit more expensive, but are easier to read and may be a bit more accurate. Some dial gauges have double fittings, allowing the same gauge to work with both Schrader and Presta valves. Less expensive dial gauges must be read while they are on the valve, but better ones have a "memory" feature, and will hold their readings after being removed from the valve, until the "reset" button is pressed.
• "Digital" gauges have a liquid-crystal readout, and an electronic sensor. They are probably the most accurate, though real-world accuracy of any type of gauge is limited by the fact that a small amount of air is lost as the gauge is removed from the valve.

Valve Adaptors

If you have Presta valves, it is a good idea to carry a Schrader/Presta adpator

Pumps

You have 7 possible choices of tools to inflate your tires:

CO₂ Cartridges | Compressors | Floor Pumps | Foot Pumps | Frame Pumps | Mini Pumps | Track Pumps

CO₂ Cartridges

CO₂ cartridges are small cylinders of carbon dioxide, originally made for seltzer siphons. With a suitable adaptor, they can be used for inflation of bicycle tires. When everything goes well, this is the fastest way to inflate a tire. They're also the lightest and most portable inflation device available, so they're fairly popular among competitive cyclists.

The down sides of CO₂ cartridges are that they are expensive and wasteful, and that each cartridge is normally only good for inflating one tire one time. While a few of the cartridge systems do permit controlled release of CO₂, most of them are "all or nothing" designs, so you can't use them for topping off a slightly soft tire. If you carry only one cartridge and get two flats on the same ride, you may be in for a long walk. I advise against relying on CO₂ cartridges except in competition.

Compressors

Compressors are a popular alternative, when available. Most gas stations will have a compressor available, either for free or coin operated. While these are convenient, they can also be dangerous. If you use a gas-station compressor, be sure to use a separate, hand-held pressure gauge, because if you rely on the gauge built into the compressor outlet, you risk blowing the tire off the rim.

The typical gas-station compressor has a head with a crank on it. You turn the crank to set the display to the desired pressure value in PSI. As air flows into the tire a bell rings. Each time the bell rings, the gauge checks to see if the pressure in the tire is more or less than the desired pressure. If it is more, the flow is stopped.

The problem with using these gauges for bicycle tires is that the volume of a bicycle tire is so much smaller than that of a car tire that the difference from one "ding" to the next can be 20 psi or so. If you set the dial to 100, the air will go "ding...ding...ding..." then there's, say, 99 psi in the tire. This is under 100, so it'll give it another blast and check again, and your tire could well be close to 120 psi. This assumes that the gauge is accurately calibrated for pressures in this range, which is a big assumption. The bottom line is that you really can't trust these gauges for bicycle tires. Instead, you should use a separate, hand-held gauge.

Floor ("Track") Pumps

The most effective human-powered inflation tool is the "floor" or "track" pump. This has a long vertical cylinder, with a "T"-shaped handle that you raise and lower with both hands. This type of pump has some sort of footrest to keep the bottom held in place, and a hose that connects to the valve. Floor pumps get most of their action from the user's back, and with an assist from gravity, as the actuall pumping occurs on the down stroke.

The better floor pumps have built-in gauges and holding tanks, so you can see just how much pressure you've got, while you're pumping. This makes them very fast and convenient to use.

Foot Pumps

An less-common type of pump, similar to a floor pump, also sits on the ground, but is operated by pressing with the foot. These are fast, but mechanically complex due to the extra linkages required. They also tend to be designed more for delivering volume than for pressure, so they don't generally pump up to high enough pressure for narrow road-type tires.

Frame Pumps

"Frame" pumps are portable pumps designed to be carried on the bicycle's frame. They are typically about as long as one of the frame tubes, and have a spring-loaded handle that holds the pump in place along one of the frame tubes. Older bikes often had two brazed-on "pump pegs" to secure the ends of a frame pump. Many newer bikes have a single peg just below the top tube on the back of the head tube, for a pump running below the top tube.

Frame pumps are the best thing to carry on the bike for emergency, on-the-road use. They take a fair amount of work to get up to full pressure, but it beats walking! They pump fairly easily at first, but they can require a fair amount of strength as the pressure gets high.

Frame Pump Techinque

As you get pump your tire up closer and closer to full inflation, the pump gets harder and harder to push. This is particularly an issue with narrow tires that need to be pumped up to high pressures.

Your arms may not be strong enough by themselves to get such a tire up to adequate pressure. Assuming you're right handed, it can help to brace your left hand or the pump head. If there's a convenient tree, I'll often lean the pump head against the tree, so my left arm doesn't actually need to do any work. If there's no suitable tree or other solid object handy, or if I'm topping off a tire without removing the wheel from the bike, I'll kneel on my right knee and brace my left wrist against the indside of my left knee.

As I approach full inflation, and the pump gets harder to push full stroke, I will start each stroke with my right arm free, then brace my right wrist against my chest for the final, hard part of the stroke, and use my back to complete the stroke.

With any type of pump, it is very important that the pump be pushed all the way to the end of its travel on each stroke, otherwise you're wasting most of your effort.

One Is Not Enough

A frame pump is not a substitute for a good floor pump; the well-equipped cyclist will own both. The floor pump is for routine pressure topping off at home, and the frame pump is for fixing flats that occur while you're out riding...they're too hard to use for non-emergencies.

Mini Pumps

The most popular type of pump these days is the "mini" pump, a pocket-sized version of a frame pump. People like them because they're small and easy to carry, but they take much longer to use than full-sized frame pumps. I generally advise against buying a mini pump unless you have particular issues with theft, because they are so inefficient. Their main advantage is that they are small enough to be carried in a bike bag that you can remove when parking in high-risk locations.

Tire Levers

Traditional tire levers, a.k.a. "tire irons" came in sets of 3, with a rounded business end, and a bent, hooked end for hooking onto a spoke. Newer ones are fibreglass or similar materials. I have an assortment of them for different tires. For very tight fitting tires, you need tire levers with thin ends, able to get underneath tight beads.

For less difficult tires, a single tire lever with a rounded, grooved end can be faster. I particularly like the "Quick Stick."

A similar unit, the Crank Brothers "Speed Lever" incorporates a telescoping extension that snaps onto the axle. This works very much like the power tools used in garages for mounting/dismounting automobile tires. This doesn't work too well on very tight tires, but on average tires, it is quite fast and easy to use.

The Kool Stop "bead jack" is an articulated tool for installing really tight tires. It has a comfortable handle and two ends, one of which is on a hinge. The rigid end uses the edge of the rim as a fulcrum, while the hinged end lifts the bead up and over the opposite edge of the rim. This is a very nice tool for dealing with really difficult tires.

Patch Kits

Patch kits are available in any bike shop. A patch kit is usually a small plastic box containing a few patches, a tube of rubber cememnt, and a bit of sandpaper or a metal scraper for preparing the tube surface. The best patch kit is the Rema "Tip Top" from Germany.

Make sure to follow the instructions.

Glueless Patches

Glueless (peel & stick) patches are avaialble, and they are slightly more convenient than conventional patches. Unfortunately, they don't have a very good reliability record, and I can't recommend them--you're much better of with a standard patch kit.

Wrenches

Unless your wheels have quick release hubs, you'll need a wrench or two to remove the wheels. (The term "wrench" is not common in British usage, where the term "spanner" or "key" is generally preferred.

Wrenches are divided into two families:

• Fixed Wrenches are made of a single piece of metal, and only fit specific sizes of fasteners. Types of fixed wrenches include:
  • Box wrenches have a complete loop that surrounds the fastener. They are substantially stronger than open-end wrenches, and are the best use for high torque applications, both because the wrench is stronger, and because it can contact more than two corners of the fastener.
  • Open-end wrenches have ends shaped like a two-tined fork. They normally have two parallel surfaces which bear against two of the sides of a fastener. Open-end wrenches are faster to put on to fasteners, and are the only kind that can be used where there is not clearance to slip a box wrench over the end of the fastener.

    Open-end wrenches don't get as good a grip as a box wrench, since they only engage two of the 6 corners of the nut. If you over-stress an open-end wrench, the jaws can spread, ruining the wrench.

  • Combination wrenches are double-ended wrenches with an open end and a box end, usually for the same size on each end. This is the most useful and most common general-purpose wrench style.
• Adjustable Wrenches can be adjusted to fit different sized fasteners, usually by the use of a thumb screw. They don't fit as well as the correct size fixed wrench, so good, well equipped mechanics only use them as a last resort. See my Tool Tips article on Adjustable Wrenches.

  Wrenches are sometimes confused with pliers, and naive users sometimes try to use pliers for jobs that really require a wrench. This usually results in damage to the nut or bolt so abused. It can also cause failure due to undertightening the part involved.

  

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Frequently Asked Questions | Care Do my new tires require any special treatment? How do I know when I need new tires? How long should my original equipment tires last? Is it safe to repair a flat tire? Must I replace my present tires with the same size tires? Should I "mix" tire types on my car? What is alignment? What should I do if I notice a vibration? When buying just two new tires, should they be put on the front or rear? Why do my tires need to be balanced? Do my new tires require any special treatment? Your new tires will probably feel different from the tires that were replaced. Drive carefully as you become familiar with their performance and handling. Take special care when braking, accelerating, cornering, or when driving in the rain, because these are the times when the differences will be most noticeable. Back to Top How do I know when I need new tires? Many tires have tread wear indicator bars molded into the tread. When the tread is worn down to where you can see a solid bar of rubber across the width of the tread, it is time to replace the tire. Here's another simple test you can perform to measure tread depth on your tires. Place a penny into a tread groove with Lincoln's head upside down and facing you. If you can see the top of Lincoln's head, it's time to visit a Goodyear retailer for a new tire. Back to Top How long should my original equipment tires last? Goodyear does not offer a written mileage promise on any tires supplied as original equipment. Due to the variety of styles, construction features, treat compounds, vehicle applications, geographical conditions and driving habits, it is difficult to provide a specific mileage expectancy. However, any tire wear concern should always be presented to your local authorized Goodyear retailer for further evaluation. Many of our authorized retailers offer specific mileage warranties on several lines of tires sold as replacement tires, including some tires that are used as original equipment. These mileage warranties are administered based on the retail outlets verification of proper tire maintenance having been performed. Back to Top Is it safe to repair a flat tire? If a tire loses all or most of its air pressure, it must be removed from the wheel for a complete internal inspection to be sure it's not damaged. Tires that are run even short distances while flat are often damaged beyond repair. Most punctures, nail holes, or cuts up to 1/4 inch -- confined to the tread -- may be satisfactorily repaired by trained personnel using industry-approved methods. Don't repair tires with tread punctures larger than 1/4 inch, or any sidewall puncture. Also, never repair tires which are worn below 1/16 inch tread depth. Your best bet is to make sure your spare tire is always ready to do the job. Check it regularly for proper air pressure and be sure that it is in good shape. If your car is equipped with one of the several types of temporary spares, be sure to check the spare tire's sidewall for the correct inflation pressure, speed, and mileage limitations. See Goodyear retailer for expert tire repair. Back to Top Must I replace my present tires with the same size tires? Never choose a smaller size than those that came with the car. Tires should always be replaced with the same size designation -- or approved options -- as recommended by the vehicle manufacturer or Goodyear retailer. Back to Top Should I "mix" tire types on my car? Tires of different size designations, constructions, and stages of wear may affect vehicle handling and stability. For best all-around performance, it is recommended that all tires be of the same size, construction (radial,non-radial) and speed rating. If tires of different speed ratings are mounted on a vehicle, the same size, type and speed ratings need to be placed on the same axle, the tires with the lower speed rating will be the determining factor for permissible tire related vehicle speed. Never mix radial and bias-ply tires on the same axle. Get specific information from your Goodyear retailer. Back to Top What is alignment? A vehicle is said to be properly aligned when all suspension and steering components are sound and when the tire and wheel assemblies are running straight and true. Proper alignment is necessary for even tread wear and precise steering. Uneven front-or rear-tire wear, or changes in your vehicle's handling or steering response (i.e. pulling to one side) can indicate misalignment. Many vehicles today are equipped with rear suspensions that can be adjusted for alignment. Your vehicle may need a "front-end" alignment or a "four-wheel" alignment, depending on the symptoms you are experiencing. The moderate cost of having your vehicle aligned can more than pay for itself in tire mileage, performance and comfort. Goodyear retailers provide expert alignment and suspension service. Back to Top What should I do if I notice a vibration? Vibration is an indication that your car has a problem that needs attention. The tires, steering system and suspension system should be checked to help determine the possible cause and correction of the vibration. If left unattended, the vibration could cause excessive tire and suspension wear. It could even be dangerous. Goodyear retailers offer expert diagnosis and repair. Back to Top When buying just two new tires, should they be put on the front or rear? When radial tires are used with bias or bias belted tires on the same car, the radials must always be placed on the rear axle. Never mix radial and bias-ply tires on the same axle. When you select a pair of replacement tires in the same size and construction as those on the car, we recommend you put them on the rear axle. A single new tire should be paired on the rear axle with the tire having the most tread depth of the other three. Back to Top Why do my tires need to be balanced? Properly balanced tires are important for driving comfort and long tire life. Unbalanced tires can cause vibration, resulting in driver fatigue, premature tire wear and unnecessary wear to your vehicle's suspension. Tires should be balanced when they are mounted on wheels for the first time or when they are remounted after repair. Tires should be rebalanced at the first sign of vibration or "shimmy." Vibration may also be due to misalignment or mechanical problems. Many Goodyear retailers can provide expert diagnosis and repair. Back to Top