by Libby Baker

At the height of Edwardian fashion was the tea gown.

The Duchess Sarah Bedford created the tradition of afternoon tea, and when the Industrial Revolution provided women the opportunity and means for more leisurely activities, afternoon tea became a ritual that revolutionized women's roles as well as attire. Edwardian husbands may have been masters of their wives for most of the day, but for a few hours every afternoon, women were allowed to undo the laces of their corsets and entertain their own guests in their own chambers - in their own way.

Tea gowns, in sharp contrast to the contorted garments worn throughout the rest of the day, were corset-less, pastel in color, lacy and resembled lingerie. In addition to the sexual intrigue that often times ensued during the height of the Belle Époque era, afternoon tea offered women the chance to bond and converse with other women outside of societal restraints. Like in the knitting circles of old, here the roots of feminism can be traced.

While not meant to be a refuge from a corset, Belle Époque should certainly be knit in such spirits, accompanied by tea and friends.

model: Libby Baker photos: Lisa Fordyce

MATERIALS

Austermann Accapella [50% Kid Mohair 50% Acrylic; 167 yd/150m per 50g skein]; color: Arctic Ice; 8 [8, 9, 10] skeins



1 set US #6/4.0mm double-point needles

24-inch US #6/4.0mm circular needle

Notions required (optional)

1-2 yds 0.25 inch elastic

2 sets of snaps

1-2 yds 2 inch satin ribbon

4 yds 2 inch coordinating sheer ribbon

20 sts/27 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

Sew shoulder seams. Set sleeve caps into armholes and sew in place. Sew collar extensions to neck edge of upper back.

Weave in all ends and block to measurements.

Ribbon Band (optional)

Measure ribcage under bust, add 3 in seam allowance and cut satin ribbon accordingly. Press in both cut edges of ribbon .5 inch and then .5 inch again. Hand or machine stitch in place. On the inside of one end of ribbon, attach hooks and then attach corresponding eyes to the outside of the CB pattern on sweater. Attach the second set of eyes to the outside of the same end of ribbon and corresponding hooks to the inside of the opposite end of ribbon so that ribbon overlaps 1 inch when fastened.

Ribbon Roses (optional)

Using the ribbon rose technique at Offray, make two roses out of the wire edge sheer ribbon. Hand stitch bottom of petals to secure in place and then attach to ribbon as follows: Hand stitch first rose to the outside of the free ribbon end so that it is centered over the CB pattern when the ribbon is fastened on the sweater. Attach the second rose 6.5 inches (or so) along the ribbon so that the second rose is also centered in the CB pattern when the ribbon is fastened.

Gathered back-No ribbon band (optional)

Measure ribcage directly under bust and cut elastic according to measurement. Overlap elastic 1 in and sew into a band. Inside the garment, fasten elastic securely at the outside edge of the CB pattern in a row which falls under the bust. Weave the yarn through the back loops of the stitches above and below the elastic, along the inside back of the garment, to the outside edge of the CB pattern. Secure elastic to outside edge of the CB pattern. Leave elastic detached from sweater at the front CB and 1x1 ribbing patterns, so that all gathering occurs at the back of the sweater.

by Chelsea Darling and Ryan Marnell

On one of my many visits to Marietta, Georgia, my extremely talented friend Chelsea Darling handed me a huge stack of fabulous design sketches done on the backs of various homework assignments, and she told me I could use any of them. After the initial state of awe, I chose one sketch of a sort-of American Revolution-type jacket.

I decided that with such a classic design, I ought to try to do it with a modern twist. I decided to use a stitch I had been working with that I haven't seen used elsewhere for the main part of the jacket. I guess I wanted to be a bit revolutionary myself.

model: Ryan Marnell photos: Brendan Marnell

MATERIALS

Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride Worsted [85% wool, 15% mohair; 190 yd/171m per 4oz skein]

[MC] M03 Grey Heather; 8 [9, 11, 13, 15, 17] skeins

[CC] M18 Khaki; 3 skeins

32-inch US #10/6mm circular needle

12-inch or 16-inch US #10/6mm circular needle

12 7/8 inch buttons

8 5/8 inch buttons

Stitch holder

Stitch marker

Tapestry needle

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations can be found here]

Note: for all variations of Split Stitch, you are knitting with two strands of yarn held together. You will be working with one strand from two different stitches as instructed.

Split Stitch

When Worked Back and Forth:

Row 1 [RS]: Working with double strand of yarn, k into first strand of first st on needle, [k second strand of first st on needle together with first strand of next st on needle] until 3 strands remain (second strand of second-last st and both strands of last st), k these 3 rem strands together.

Row 2 [WS]: Cont with double strand of yarn, p into first strand of first st on needle, [p second strand of first st on needle together with first strand of next st on needle] until 3 strands remain, p 3 rem strands together.

Repeat these 2 rounds for Split Stitch.

When Worked in the Round:

Set-up Round: K into first strand of first st on needle, [k second strand of first st on needle together with first strand of next st on needle] until 1 strand remains.

Round 1: Slip last strand of previous round to right needle, remove st marker, slip strand back to left needle, k this strand together with first strand of first st, replace st marker, [k second strand of first st on needle together with first strand of next st on needle] until 1 strand remains.

Round 2: Slip last strand of previous round to right needle, remove st marker, slip strand back to left needle, replace st marker, k this strand together with first strand of first st, [k second strand of first st on needle together with first strand of next st on needle] until 1 strand remains.

Repeat Rounds 1 and 2 for Split Stitch.

Split Stitch Decrease Row (Can be worked on RS or WS):

Work both strands of first st together with first strand of second st on needle, [k second strand of first st on needle together with first strand of next st on needle] until 5 strands remain, k 5 rem strands together. 1 st decreased at each end of row.

Seed Stitch (Worked over an odd number of sts)

Row 1: [K1, p1] to last st, k1.

Every row is the same.

Intarsia

When working color work in Intarsia, different sections of each row are worked with different colors. For this pattern, it is necessary to use a different ball of yarn for each area of color. When switching from one color to the next, drop the color you have been knitting with, and bring the yarn for the next color up under the yarn of the previous color before you continue knitting. This will twist the 2 yarns around each other. It is very important to do this; if you do not wrap the yarns in this way, the areas of color will not be joined, and you will have holes in your work.

W2tog

Work next 2 sts tog in patt (if next st is a k st, k2tog; if it is a p st, p2tog).

W2tog tbl

Work next 2 sts tog in patt through back loops (if next st is a k st, k2tog through back loops or ssk; if it is a p st, p2tog tbl).

Three-Needle Bind Off

Hold both pieces of knitting with right sides together.

*Insert needle into first st on front needle and first st on back needle, and knit them together. Repeat this for the next st on the front and back needles. Draw the first st worked over the second st.*

Repeat from * to * until all sts have been bound off. Break yarn and draw through remaining st.

Sew sleeves into armholes.

Sew short edges of collar together, and sew collar to neckline of jacket along shaped edges of collar, lapping ends of collar over lapels (see photo).

Fold cuffs back 4 inches, and sew 2 small buttons to each side of cuff (4 buttons on each cuff), sewing through both layers on each side of slit.

Fold back lapels and sew 5 large buttons, evenly spaced, along each lapel, sewing through both lapel and body of jacket.

Sew 1 large button to each corner of collar, sewing through both collar and body of jacket.

Block to minimize curling of fabric.

by Cheryl Niamath

By popular demand, we present a guy-friendly version of Fetching.

This fingerless mitt pattern is only slightly more complicated than Fetching, and the finished product is something you could wear yourself or proudly present to a lucky recipient of either sex.

The cable rounds are a bit more of a challenge, but there are only 3 of them, nicely spread out so you have time to collect yourself in between.

These mitts are meant to fit snugly around the wrist, to keep out cold winds.

If you are substituting yarn, look for something with a listed gauge of 16-18 stitches over 4 inches, and use smaller than recommended needles to knit your project.

model: Paul Lesack, Cheryl Niamath photos: Wendy Niamath

[Knitty's list of standard abbreviations and techniques can be found here]

It's spring. It should be getting warmer any day now, right? Right.

While you are outside shivering in chiffon, waiting for that first butterfly to de-cocoon, you need to keep warm. The perfect solution is these legwarmers! Carry them with you - stick a pair in your backpack, or in your bottom desk drawer at the office. You will no longer have to let sudden temperature changes or gale-force winds get you down!

This pattern is a basic design that can be altered in a multitude of ways. Use smaller needles and a finer yarn, and work 2 or 3 inches of ribbing at the top if the yarn you choose is elastic enough - just keep the finished dimensions the same. Substitute elastic for the I-cord. Hem the bottoms or not. Add a pattern stitch, like cables or a lace panel, up the sides. Decorate with intarsia or a Fair Isle band. Make them thigh-high or ankle-length.

Experiment!

model: Stefanie Japel photo : Nathan Japel

Circumference: 10[12, 14] inches [stretchy]

Length: variable

MATERIALS

Cinnamon's Dye Pot [Brushed Mohair; ~250 yd per 4 oz skein] ; color: Enchanted Forest; 1 skein [all sizes]; or any glamorous yarn of the same weight. Use a finer yarn if a more open fabric is desired.

One skein sock yarn for I-cord

1 set US #15/10 mm straight needles

1 set US #11/8 mm straight needles

1 set US #2/2.75 mm double-point needles for I-cord drawstrings

darning needle

11 sts/12 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

Steam pieces flat.

Using right side purl rows as a guide, turn and press both top and bottom 4 rows.

Sew seams together, being careful not to pull tightly so the seam will be invisible when finished.

Be sure to leave 2 inches open at top for I-cord casing.

Sew casing in place [sew as if hemming the top, but leave the edges open so that the I-cord can be inserted.]

Hem bottoms if desired.

Knit 2 feet of I-cord for each legwarmer.

Attach a big safety pin to one end of each I-cord length and thread into casing.

Tie into bows and get fabulous!