chile con yarne » Baby Viking Hat

http://rsveverka.com/chileconyarne/?p=7

clipped by kibe Jan 11, 2007

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Notes by kibe: Baby Viking Hat pattern

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Claude the Camel - Crochetville--A Crochet Forum and Message Board

http://www.crochetville.org/forum/showthread.ph...

clipped by kibe Oct 18, 2006

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Claude the Camel

A fellow C'viller asked me to figure out a camel to help finish her nativity scene... here is what I came up with.
Claude is about 5 inches tall, and about 5-6 inches from nose to tail.
This pattern has not been tested, so if you find any errors, please let me know!
Enjoy!

Claude the 2 Humped Camel

Supplies needed :
G Hook
Small amounts of WW yarn
Buttons for eyes (optional)
Fiberfill
1 pipe cleaner

Terms used
Sc = single crochet
Sc-dec = single crochet decrease over 2 stitches
Dc= double crochet
Trc= Triple crochet
Ch = chain
BLO= Back loops only
Slp stch= slip stitch
FO = Finish off, or Fasten off

Body and neck
Each round is joined with a slp st to first stitch made in that row
Ch 2,
1) 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook,
2) ch 1, 2 sc in each sc around (12 sc)
3) ch 1, (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc) repeat around (18 sc)
4-10) ch 1, sc in each sc around
11) ch 1, (sc-dec, sc in next sc) (12 sc)
STUFF
12) ch 1, (sc-dec, sc in next sc) (8 sc)
Body is not complete..DO NOT finish off, moving onto neck,
STUFF as you go.
13-20) ch 1, sc in each sc around.
FO leaving longer tail for sewing.

Head
Each round is joined with a slp st to first stitch made in that row
Ch 2
1) 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook
2) ch 1, sc in each sc around
3) ch 1, sc in first 2 sc, 2 sc in each of next 3 sc, sc in last sc (9 sc)
4) ch 1, (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc) repeat 3 MORE times, sc in last sc (13sc)
5-9) ch 1, sc in each sc around
It is easiest if you emboider nose now,
10) ch 1, (sc-dec, sc in next sc) repeat 3 MORE times, sc in last sc. (9 sc)
STUFF, sew or emboider eyes is easiest if done here.
11) ch 1, sc-dec around, end with sc in last sc
FO

Use tail to sew hole shut.
Fold pipe cleaner in half. Push folded pipe cleaner up neck of camel and into body, leaving about Â½ inch sticking out. Place head on end of neck, pushing remaining pipe cleaner into head. Make sure seam side of head is used as the bottom of head. Trim pipe cleaner if necessary. Sew head to neck.

Ears (make 2)
Ears are done in continous spiral, do not join at round end
Ch 2
1) 5 sc in 2nd ch from hook
2) sc in each sc around
Slp st to next sc,
FO

Sew ears towards back of head.
Sew or emboider eyes on head

First hump
Rows are done in continous spiral, do not join at round end
Ch 2
1) 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook
2) (2 sc in first sc, sc in next sc) repeat around (9 sc)
3) (2 sc in first sc, sc in next 2 sc) repeat around (12 sc)
Slp st to next sc
FO

Second hump:
Repeat directions for first hump EXCEPT do not slp st to next sc at end of round 3..instead,
4) sc in first 4 sc, dc in next sc, trc in next sc, now, take first hump made,(NO NOT fasten off!) and trc in any sc on first hump, Wornking on first hump dc in next sc, sc in next 8 sc, dc in next sc, trc in next sc, Working now on second hump, trc in first unused sc on second hump (this will be the first one immediately after the trc made before joining the first hump), dc in next sc, sc in last 4 sc.
Slp stch to next sc
FO leaving LONG tail.

Sew hump to camel body, stuffing slightly under the hump if desired.

Feet (make 4)
Feet are made in one continous spiral, do not join round ends A stich marker may be helpful here.
Chain 2,
1) 6 sc in 2nd chain from hook
2) IN BACK LOOPS ONLY. ch 1, sc in each sc around
3-6) sc in each sc around.
FO leaving longer tail for sewing.

Stuff legs if desired. (I didnâ€™t do this to mine, and it still stands up!)
Sew legs to camel

Tail
Ch 6
1) slp stch in 2nd chain from hook, slp stch in next 2 chs, sc in last 2 chs.
FO
Sew tail to camel.
Bend Camels neck as desired.
Enjoy!

Shadow or Illusion Knitting

http://www.freshislefibers.com/Patterns/shadowk...

clipped by kibe Apr 11, 2006

illusionknitting knit knitting pattern

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Crayon Scarf - SlippedStitch

http://slippedstitch.blogspot.com/2005/12/my-cr...

clipped by kibe Apr 11, 2006

knit knitting pattern scarf

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My crayon scarf!

Finished this for a xmas present for my littler brother. It was inspired by a novelty plaster (plasters are bandaids - for the non-Brits). I want to make a whole set of them now. Maybe even a pencil to go with them too...

Its a bit short as a scarf for my tastes but it's backed with fleece which makes it super-warm so you don't need to double it round your neck and goes once-round quite neatly. Also, because its backed with fleece you can wear it with the plain black showing (rather than just busting the whole "my sister knitted me a novelty intarsia thing for xmas" look...)

Materials:

2 balls MC and I CC (both Patons Gold DK - though my gage was a little loose and I'd maybe try aran weight if I did it again)
1 pair 4.5mm needles
1 tapestry needle
Set of bobbins
Also, to back, you'll need about 1m by 20cm of black fleece (this is generous, but should do it, I suggest you knit then measure before you buy), a normal sewing needle and some black cotton thread.

Gage and measurements:
17sts and 23rows to 10cm x 10cm square in st st. Note my knitting is very loose so you should check your gage first, you might want larger needles. It’s worth matching gage because proportions are everything in this. If it’s too tight, it’ll not only be a bit “skinny” for a scarf, but pretty short too. The whole thing measured nearly 1m.

Instructions
Its stocking stitch throughout.

CO 10 sts, and m1 at the end of each row till you have 22sts. Knit in st st till it measures about 11cm. CO 4 sts at the end of each row (so you now have 30 sts in total) and knit for another 5cm.

Swap to CC, and knit 6rows, then 4rows MC, 2 rows CC.

Knit 20rows CC.

*K11 CC, change to CC, k8, swap back to CC and knit to end.
P8 CC, p14 MC, p8 CC
K5 CC, k20 MC, k5 CC
P5 CC, p20 MC, p5 CC
K5 CC, k20 MC, k5 CC*

Now pause to draw yourself out a chart for the label. I'd pass on mine but its paper and covered in scribbles, its easy enough to do your own. You might want to change the shape at the ends of the label, I'm not sure about mine. I used the letter grid from Magknits' Crime of Fashion scarf. The letters are the MC (in my case blue) with a CC (black) boarder of four sts either side. there will be 5 MC either side of that. Which means at times you'll have up to seven bobbins going at once.

Don't be tempted to faire-isle it, it'll go all lumpy. Also, remember you're working from the "N" up (or "A" if your going to make it say crayola).

Knit and purl and bobbin away till you've got to the end. repeat the section * to * but back to front (so it mirrors the start.

Knit 20 rows in MC, 2rows CC, 4rows MC, 6 rows CC, 14 rows MC.

Cast off, weave in ends, go to your friendly local fabric shop for some black fleece to back it with.

The Harry Potter Dark Mark Bag -- Free Knitting Chart

http://www.freewebs.com/theloveplant/knitting/d...

clipped by kibe Apr 11, 2006

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Viking Cap : chile con yarne » Patterns

http://grandbluedoor.com/knitblog/?cat=3

clipped by kibe Apr 11, 2006

hat knit knitting pattern viking

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punk_knitters: shrug pattern

http://community.livejournal.com/punk_knitters/...

clipped by kibe Apr 11, 2006

knit knitting pattern shrug skull

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Linux scarf from Ulla

http://dabne.net/carolina/geekknit/linuxscarf-e...

clipped by kibe Apr 11, 2006

geek knit knitting pattern scarf tux

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Linux illusion scarf

by Heidi Antila for the Finnish online knitting magazine Ulla
Original pattern and pictures © 2005 Heidi Antila
About the author [in Finnish]

translated, with the author's permission, by Urraca from the Tertulia madrileña de punto and Churras con merinas
You may use this translation under a Creative Commons License, including the following options: compulsory crediting of the authors, non-commercial use, and share-alike, that is you have the right to modify it as long as you do it with the same kind of license.

|| Alkuperäinen malli suomeksi || English version || Version française || Versión española ||

[Translator's notes in brackets]

Suggested yarn and estimate yardage
Background colour: 300 g Novita 7 veljestä (light green)
[150g skein = 300m/328yd; gauge: 18x26 = 10cm/4" on 4mm/US5-6 needles]
Foreground colour: 150 g Novita Wool (black)
[50g skein = 135m/148yd; gauge: 22x26 = 10cm/4" on 3.5mm/US4 needles]

[Translator's note: You'll probably have to substitute the Novita yarns this pattern calls for. It's usually recommended to knit illusion scarfs with a tight tension in a worsted or light worsted yarn (20-22 stitches = 10cm/4"), for instance Brown Sheep Nature Spun Worsted or Katia Diana.
Please note that Heidi used a thinner yarn for the foreground colour to enhance the illusion effect. Don't assume from the above you'll need twice as much background colour as foreground colour. Usually illusion scarfs use up roughly the same yardage for both. My guess based on my skull illusion scarf which half as wide is that you'll need at least 150g or 300m/330yd in each colour, more if you wish a longer scarf.]

Needles
4 mm / US 5-6

Width
Scarf measures circa 29 cm.

Tip
Read Heidi’s advice on planning illusion knitting [in Finnish].

[Translator's note: Illusion knitting is based on repeating throughout a set of stripes alternating 2 stockinette stitch rows in the foreground colour with 2 garter stich rows in the background colour. On RS, this will create a flat fabric for 3 rows followed by a bumpy one (the bumps caused by K on WS). When you get to knit the foreground pattern, you reverse this order: the background colour will be knit flat so that the bumps knit in the foreground colour can emerge. As a result, on RS, a slanted view will reveal the full illusion since you only get to see the bumps. From a frontal view, however, you will only see stripes, albeit slightly irregular in some places.]

Pattern

CO 60 stitches in background colour (light green).

Work 2 rows of garter stitch in background colour (light green) and 2 rows of stockinette stitch in foreground colour (black).

Start knitting the penguin [following Tux chart from the bottom up].

Each line on the chart represents the following 4-row sequence:

1st row. K across the row with the green yarn.
2nd row. K all the white squares and P all the red ones, using the green yarn.
3rd row: Change colour and K across the row with the black yarn.
4th row: K all the red squares and P all the white ones, using the black yarn.

Repeat until the penguin is done.

Work several sequences of 2 rows in garter stitch with the green yarn followed with 2 rows in stockinette stitch with the black yarn, until you have reached the desired length for the scarf, taking into account the fact that the Linux text will be roughly as long as the penguin.

Work the Linux text section [following the second chart from the top down] in the same way you did the penguin one.

BO and add fringes on both ends.

Remember! One line on the charts represents 4 rows.

The numbers on the chart indicate the number of stitches to be worked in each colour.

Charts

Original images
Tux image © 1997 Larry Ewing (1997) / GIMP (lewing@isc.tamu.edu), Permission to use and/or modify this image is granted provided you acknowledge him and The GIMP.
Linux-logo © 1997 Andreas Dilger, free for commercial and non-commercial use.

LJ Crochet Community Archive - Mario star - revisited and corrected

http://community.livejournal.com/crochet/277654...

clipped by kibe Apr 11, 2006

craft crochet geek mario pattern

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brennx0r bl0g.: Knit Domokun Nintendo DS Case Pattern

http://brennx0r.blogspot.com/2006/03/knit-domok...

clipped by kibe Apr 11, 2006

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Knit Domokun Nintendo DS Case Pattern

This is only in a "rough draft" state. I made this up while knitting the newest version of the pattern (straight from my brain!) It makes corrections for some of the domokun features from my first knitted work (now has four pointy teeth instead of the way too many I had before). During the next few days I am probably going to be making further corrections to the pattern, so bear with me. If you're feeling adventurous, I more than welcome you to try this pattern. I appreciate any feedback for corrections! :)

(Corrections have been added, are BOLD)

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS

flat: 10cm X 20cm (flap open), 10cm X 15cm (flap closed)

Comfortably fits a Nintendo DS, but can be used for many other things (sunglasses, passports, keys, etc.)

MATERIALS

1 skein each of the following:

[MC] Karabella Aurora 8, Mustard.
[CC1] Karabella Aurora 8, Black.
[CC2] Karabella Aurora 8, Ecru.
[CC3] Karabella Aurora 8, Vermillion.
(I've noticed that Yarn Market will consistantly carry all colors at a fair price: http://www.yarnmarket.com/yarn/Karabella_Yarn-Aurora_8_Yarn-665.html)
Tapestry Needle
1 set US 8 Straight or circular needles
2 Buttons (approx 1" diameter)

This is knitted as one "L" shaped piece, and then sewn together. This is mainly done because of my personal hate of weaving and finishing. However, this can be knitted in multiple pieces fairly easily. If you would prefer a copy of this, let me know. :)

PATTERN:

Using US 8 and MC, CO 40 sts.

Row 1: Sl1, then K till end of row.
Row 2: Sl1, then P till end of row.

Rep. rows 1-2 until end of row 14.

Row 15: Sl1, then K till end of row.
Row 16: Sl1, then P23. Switch to CC1, P12. Switch to MC, P4
Row 17: Sl1, then K2. Switch to CC1, K1. Switch to CC2, K12. Switch to CC1, K1. Switch to MC, K23.
Row 18: Sl1, then P22. Switch to CC1, P1. Switch to CC2, P12. Switch to CC1, P1. Switch to MC, P3.
Row 19: Sl1, then K2. Switch to CC1, K1. Switch to CC3, K1. *Switch to CC2, K1. Switch to CC3, K2. (rep from * 2 more times). Switch to CC2, K1. Switch to CC3, K1. Switch to CC1, K1. Switch to MC, K23
Row 20: Sl1, then P22. Switch to CC1, P1. Switch to CC3, P12. Switch to CC1, P1. Switch to MC, P3.
Row 21: Sl1, then K2. Switch to CC1, K1. Switch to CC3, K12. Switch to CC1, K1. Switch to MC, K23
Row 22: Sl1, then P22. Switch to CC1, P1. Switch to CC3, P12. Switch to CC1, P1. Switch to MC, P3.
Row 23: Sl1, then K2. Switch to CC1, K1. Switch to CC3, K1. *Switch to CC2, K1. Switch to CC3, K2. (rep from * 2 more times). Switch to CC2, K1. Switch to CC3, K1. Switch to CC1, K1. Switch to MC, K23
Row 24: Sl1, then P22. Switch to CC1, P1. Switch to CC2, P12. Switch to CC1, P1. Switch to MC, P3.
Row 25: Sl1, then K2. Switch to CC1, K1. Switch to CC2, K12. Switch to CC1, K1. Switch to MC, K23.
Row 26: Sl1, then P23. Switch to CC1, P12. Switch to MC, P4
Row 27: Sl1, then K till end of row.
Row 28: Sl1, then P23. Switch to CC1, P1. Switch to MC, P10. Switch to CC1, P1. Switch to MC, P4.
Row 29: Sl1, then K2. Switch to CC1, K3. Switch to MC, K8. Switch to CC1, K3. Switch to MC, K23
Row 30. Sl1, then P21. Switch to CC1, P5. Switch to MC, P6. Switch to CC1, P5. Switch to MC, P2.
Row 31: Sl1, then K1. Switch to CC1, K3. Switch to CC2, K1. Switch to CC1, K1. Switch to MC, K6. Switch to CC1, K3. Switch to CC2, K1. Switch to CC1, K1. Switch to MC, K22
Row 32: Sl1, then P22. Switch to CC1, P3. Switch to MC, P8. Switch to CC1, P3. Switch to MC, P3.
Row 33: Sl1, then K3. Switch to CC1, K1. Switch to MC, K10. Switch to CC1, K1. Switch to MC, K24.
Row 34: Sl1, then P till end of row.
Row 35: Sl1, then K till end of row.
Row 36: *K1, P1 (rep from * 10 times for 20 st total), P20
Row 37: K20, *P1, K1 (rep from * till end of the row)
Row 38: Cast Off the first 20 stitches, then P the remaining stitches.
Row 39: K all
Row 40: P all
Row 41: K all
Row 42: P all
Row 43: K all
Row 44: K1, P1, K1, P14, K1, P1, K1
Row 45: K1, P1, K16, P1, K1
Row 46: K1, P1, K1, P14, K1, P1, K1
Row 47: K1, P1, K16, P1, K1
Row 48: K1, P1, K1, P14, K1, P1, K1
Row 49: K1, P1, K16, P1, K1
Row 50: K1, P1, K1, P14, K1, P1, K1
Row 51: K1, P1, K3, Cast off 3, K5, Cast off 3, K2, P1, K1
Row 52: K1, P1, K1, P1, Cast On 3, P5, Cast on 3, P2, K1, P1, K1
Row 53: K1, P1, K16, P1, K1
Row 54: *K1, P1 (rep. from * till end of row)
Row 55: *P1, K1 (rep from * till end of row)
Row 56: P2TOG, p16, p2TOG
Row 57: Cast off all stitches.

Weave in ends. With the tapestry needle, sew up the bottom and the side of the work. Sew on buttons to the back, lining up with the button holes on the back flap.

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chile con yarne » Baby Viking Hat

Baby Viking Hat

Claude the Camel - Crochetville--A Crochet Forum and Message Board

Shadow or Illusion Knitting

Crayon Scarf - SlippedStitch

My crayon scarf!

The Harry Potter Dark Mark Bag -- Free Knitting Chart

Viking Cap : chile con yarne » Patterns

punk_knitters: shrug pattern

Linux scarf from Ulla

Linux illusion scarf

Pattern

Charts

LJ Crochet Community Archive - Mario star - revisited and corrected

brennx0r bl0g.: Knit Domokun Nintendo DS Case Pattern

Click here for a PDF of the Dark Mark chart
>	Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride Worsted (85% wool/15% mohair; 113g/190 yds) A: 2 skeins #M05 Onyx B: 1 skein #M172 Deep Pine US 8 (5mm) straight needles Tapestry needle 2 spools Kreinik Metallic thread (fine #8 braid), green; or other metallic thread Sewing needle Sewing thread, black 12 inch (30cm) zipper, black ~1/2 yd liner fabric The idea for this purse came from the fact that I'm not a big fan of house scarves but I still wanted to knit something HP related. I liked the idea of the Dark Mark, so I drew one up and decided to put it on a purse. I finished putting the purse together around 3am, 9 hours before going to see Goblet of Fire on the first day it was open. The design for the purse changed a bit because I originally had a different idea as to how I was going to put it together, so I had knit the front and back panels separately. I think the easiest way to do the bag is to knit the front and back in one big vertical piece (starting from the top of the chart), then sewing up the sides and attaching the strap. Note: You may find that your gauge changes when you go from doing the chart to knitting the back--my gauge got a lot bigger, so watch out for that. I used the metallic thread to make a sparkly border around the outside of the chart since the book describes the Dark Mark as looking like it was made up of "emerald stars" (and I thought making the whole Dark Mark chart sparkly might be too much).