How to Turn Cheap “Choice” Steaks into Gucci “Prime” Steaks
August 28th, 2007
(Grilled Porterhouse with Garlic-Herb Butter, Shoestring
Fries and Spinach with Garlic Chips. Thank you Kelly for
cooking my spinach while I tended to my rugrat children who thought
it would be funny to watch Mom trip over the marbles that they
dumped down the stairs. Ha. Ha. That was funny boys.)
This recipe is published in my
inaugural food column for Creative
Loafing on
Wednesday 8/29
If you are a meat-lover, I hope that the title of this post + luscious photo is enticing enough for you to read though the entire article. Because I promise you that it’s worth it. Even if you don’t eat meat, this is worth reading…as you can impress the hell outta your carnivorean friends. (and sometimes, when you’re a vegetarian in a herd of carnivores…it would just be nice to have that extra, "dude….you didn’t know that about steak???!" in your pocket.)
My entire family (including the 2 yr old kid) just adores
steak…you could probably classify us as professional
steak-eaters. In fact, it is my husband’s life-long quest to
hone his grilling technique so that our steaks at home turn out
charred crusty on the outside and perfectly medium-rare on the
inside. With grill marks for show, of course.
Seriously, we are too cheap to eat out at nice steak
restaurants.
For the past 4
months, we have been experimenting with how to get full, juicy,
beefy flavor of a ribeye with butter-knife tenderness of a filet
mignon without paying up-the-butt for Prime
cuts.
And by golly, after 4 months of eating steak 2x a week, I think we’ve figured it out.
So, my friends, I am offering you a very juicy secret, one that will turn an ordinary "Choice" cut of steak into a gucci "Prime" cut. Do you know the joy of buying Choice and eating Prime? It’s like buying a Hyundai and getting a free mail-in rebate for a BMW upgrade!!!
The secret after the jump…..
Massively salt your steaks 1 hour before grilling.
Notice that I didn’t say, "sprinkle liberally" or even "season generously." I’m talking about taking a small handful of kosher salt and literally coating your meat until you can’t see red.
It should resemble a salt lick.
Let that meat be totally overwhelmed with the salt for 1 hour. Rinse, pat dry dry dry and then you’re ready to grill.
Before y’all throw a hissy fit, just hear me out. I first learned of this technique from Judy Rodgers’ Zuni Café Cookbook. Judy massively salts her chicken before roasting, and I’ve adapted the practice to steaks. Thanks to a couple of other books (McGee’s On Food and Cooking and Alton Brown’s I’m Just Here For the Food), and a few fellow bloggers, I have somewhat of an explanation of how it works.
But just so you know…I slept through high school biology and chemistry, especially during the chapter on osmosis. I’m asking for any researchers, doctors, scientists, butchers, plumbers, professional chefs, mechanics….basically anyone who didn’t sleep through school to add to this conversation. Mainly because maybe, there might be as many holes in my slideshow as there are in my pea-head.
Oh, and
if the drawings look like a 3rd grader did it, too bad….I’m not a
artist, dammit!!! YOU try drawing with a laptop touch-pad and
a glass of bourbon on the rocks.
Slide #1:
All of you who season JUST before grilling - this is what you are really doing to the meat. Did you know that? All the water comes to the surface and if you don’t pat super-dry, you’re basically STEAMING the meat.
But if you let it sit for a while…this is what happens: cue Slide #2:
Now - note that only a little of the salt gets to go back into the meat. Don’t worry - you aren’t going to be eating all that salt!
Slide #3:
Bourbon does that to me too.
Ok, Slide #4: After you let it rest, then
I can hear it now.."BUT….BUT…BUT….what of all the
water that stayed on the surface of the meat? Not all
the water gets reabsorbed! Will it taste
like a salt lick?
(*%!*%!@#!#!!! I DON’T
UNDERSTAND!!!"
Sit back down…and let’s move on to Slide #5:
I meant "prune" not "prude" - but whatever. too
lazy to modify the jpg.
Why not
brine?
Well, yeah…you could. But that involves measuring, finding a
big enough container, dissolving, finding enough space in the
refrigerator for the big container, chilling, waiting, waiting,
waiting, draining, washing big fat container, unchilling the meat
to bring to room temp. Waaaayyyy too much work for a simple
gal. Plus, brined steak tastes like shit. Because
of high water concentration of a brine, you are ADDING a lot of
water into the meat. Not what you want for a steak.
Other Notes
Wow! I can’t
believe all the response this post has been getting! Based on
your feedback (keep ‘em coming) I’ll be adjusting recipe, technique
and explanations a little here and there. I usually will
highlight Edits - so check back
often.
- Use kosher or sea salt, not iodized table salt…or else your meat will taste like…well…iodine.
- Use steaks 1" or thicker.
- Use 1/2 to 2 teaspoons of kosher salt per side. Just salt until you can’t see red. See the photo above. That huge dinner-plate sized Porterhouse took about 2 tsps of kosher salt. Some of the salt already dissolved by the time I got out my camera….it was really, really covered in salt. For smaller cuts - use 1 tsp or less. If you normally salt super-light, use 1/2 tsp.
- I generally salt 1 hour on counter.
- Don’t worry about exact measurements or timing. (did you notice
the abundance of "-ish"???) You don’t even need a measuring
spoon - just take a small spoonful of salt. Just make sure
that you let it sit at least an hour-ish. T
his method is extremely
flexible-ish and works damn well every single time. I promise you
won’t be disappointed-ish.
-
If you are Harold McGee,
a
member
of Alton Brown’s research team or Mr. Burke my high school bio
teacher…..and think I’m full of B.S…. please let me know. But
guys, none of this was in your books. I had to formulate,
extrapolate, hypotholate and guesstulate based on
your stuff. Highly mental
activity.
- If you are not one of the above but have a better explanation than I my little brain could muster, please let me know.
-
With
respect, Ms.Judy Rogers, I’d like to suggest that your explanation
of why salting works in your book may be incorrect. Reverse
osmosis doesn’t happen by itself…it requires an abundance of
external force…kinda like me trying to get my kids to pick up their
toys.
- Should I call this Salt-Curing, Dry-Brining, Salting, Dry Rubbing or just plain Idiotic? This sounds awfully like salt-curing - but doesn’t that dry out meat (like beef jerky)? Well yes it does - but when you use A LOT more salt and leave it salting for A LOOOOOONG time. We’re talking about an hour-ish nap here - not weeks - just enough to break down the protiens.
-
Again, don’t
worry about all that salt. Only a bit of it gets absorbed into the
meat. Most of it gets washed down the drain when you rinse
off. Really.
I understand that this method will cause chaos, confusion and controversy in your household. But I encourage you to experiment — try adding spices, crushed garlic and rosemary sprigs to the salt, which will then act like Christina Aguilera dragging its entourage of flavors with it into the meat.
If confusion
in the household becomes unbearable, just whack’em with the hunk of
salty meat.
Grilled Steak with Garlic-Herb Butter
Step 1: Buy a
hunk of steak 1-inch thick or more. I like mine 1½-inches thick.
Rib Eye, Porterhouse, T-Bone and NY Strip work perfectly.
Don’t try this with
steaks thinner than 1". It won’t work well.
Edit- just tried Filet Mignon
tonight….deeeeluscious!
Another reader had great success with Elk.
Step 2: About 1/2 to 2 teaspoons of
kosher salt per side. Small girly 1lb steak = 1/2 tsp. Manly man
3lb steak = 2 tsp. Let it sit on counter for 1 hr. Not all of
the moisture will be re-absorbed back in. In fact, you will see
quite a bit of water. That’s ok. Don’t panic. Read
slides above for explanation. Don’t use anything other than
kosher or sea salt, ok? Edit -
based on some of the comments, everyone has a different salt
preference. If you normally salt really, lightly, then use 1/2
teaspoon of salt per side. Also, if your steak is really superbly
marbled - don’t use this method- you don’t need
it!
Step 3: Rinse all
salt off, pat very dry <- that part is important.
Season with fresh ground pepper (no more salt is needed). Grill to
your liking. Hint: get yourself a grilling thermometer. Top with
Garlic-Herb Butter immediately to let it oooooze and aaaahhze all
over the steak.
Garlic-Herb Butter
1 stick of unsalted butter,
softened
handful of fresh herbs (any combination is fine. My fav is basil
and parsley)
1-3 cloves of garlic, smushed in garlic press
To make the Garlic-Herb Butter, combine all ingredients. Lay out a
sheet of plastic wrap. Spoon butter mixture on wrap. Roll and shape
butter into a log. Refrigerate to firm up for 30 minutes. Slice
into 1/4” disks to top the grilled steaks. You can make butter up
to 3 days in advance.
Notice the consistency in
ingredients (first photo and the one below): perfect steak always
go so well with homemade
shoestring fries or
homemade potato chips. The green stuff is just to give
color to the plate.
unless it has garlic-herb butter slathered all over it too.
Hey guys,
sorry to have to moderate comments - it seems that MEAT + SALT
brings out stalkers and people with daddy
issues.
Well, it seems that the method is getting mixed results - I love hearing both sides as it helps me refine the technique and recipe. At least we’re all talkin’ about food! I’ve adjusted the recipe - and added notes throughout the post. Happy eating!
xoxo
Jaden


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